How many miles on the beast? Throttle body looks fairly clean.
How many miles on the beast? Throttle body looks fairly clean.
Be cautious of the bolts holding the water pump on. There is one, I think towards to top, that goes into the water jacket and can corrode on the end of the threads. This happened to me, had to drill it out. Not fun.
Avus Silver RS6 - Viper Stage 2 ECU/TCU - Water/Meth Injection - Frozen Rotors - Hbars - clear corners - Hella smoked tails - gutted precats
It just turned 100,000 last week.Originally Posted by 905084
The intercooler hoses are a bit oily but no oil poured out when I removed them. The one over by the oil filter is coated in oil on the outside though. Not sure if that's coming from within or if someone was sloppy with an oil change.
Ugh. Did the socket head strip, or did the threaded portion snap off?
I had to hammer in the hex driver to do the little crank pulley bolts -- they were all pretty corroded inside the socket.
I bought the fancy VAG crank/cam seal puller but I'm not sure if I am going to do the cam seals or not. There is a bit of oil down by the crank seal. I might do that but I'll have to go to the dealer to get another big bolt. I figured a long weekend would be enough time to do this job but clearly not at my speed. Good thing I have a few other cars I can drive in the meantime.
Another question: the hydraulic toothed belt dampener/tensioner thing doesn't seem to be described in the Bentley. Clearly some more stuff has to come off to replace that. Do I need to remove the torsion mount (snub mount) over on the right side of the engine to get to that?
Yes you need to remove the snub mount and the aluminum bracket there to get the hydraulic tensioner out. I replaced all of my crank pulley and waterpump bolts along with all of the bolts/studs that hold the tensioners as we had a forum member a couple of years ago have a bolt/stud break and he got lucky that the belt didn't go but it could have been catastrophic. Since your car is a NE car with the rust on those I would replace them all anyways.
2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
Roy, WA
I've seen plastic impellers with badly worn, and occasionally missing(from wear), vanes pulled off VAG cars. If you have the means, I recommend switching to metal impeller-pump.
Avus RS 6, RNS-E/BT/RVC, Eurocharged/MTM, SuperSports, PSS9/Hotchkis, SS Lines/EBC Reds, FMU/BMC, Sportec vents, 007's, 9500ci, Black Optics/Headlights/Trim/Rims, CC; coming soon: stage 3 snow meth
My car had a metal impeller waterpump when I changed it out last fall. It did have it's 35K service in 2006 at 32K but I can't remember if they changed the waterpump then or not. I'm not home right now to look at the original service receipt. No when I did the timing belt on my tt ('02 225bhp 1.8t) last year it was time to do but the real reason was because it started to overheat and when I pulled the waterpump it had the plastic impeller, which appeared to be fine but it was spinning on the shaft, kind of a shrink fit to a knurled shaft, bad idea VAG.
2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
Roy, WA
My understanding is that the plastic impeller problems are largely in the past, due to materials changes. Blau has video and writeup describing it here: http://www.blauparts.com/audi_water_...ntroversy.html According to that, the "plastic" (PPS) impellers are reliable and higher performance than the metal ones.
In any case, with the short change interval, I am not worried about it.
This is kind of funny...
The aftermarket part is identical, except the Audi logo and part number are milled off. Pay less, get weight savings!
It could be the same manufacturer. They are not authorized re-sellers for OEM parts.
05 Cayenne turbo
Oh, it certainly is the same manufacturer -- NTN, cast into both parts. It came in an NTN box.
So this is the pinnacle of this job (or the nadir?): I have finally started putting new parts on the car, rather than removing stuff. New crank seal is in:
I've never liked this method of removing the old seal -- it seems very error prone. One slip and your crank is f*ed:
I purchased the VAG seal remover tool with the intention of avoiding the screw method, but I didn't read carefully. There are actually two seal extractor tools, and the one I bought is for the cam seals. My cam seals are dry so I am leaving them alone.
Couple more pics
This was my first attempt at removing the cam sprockets, using the cam bar to keep the cam from turning while I turned in the puller bolt. It didn't work because the cam bar interfered with the puller arms:
Second, successful attempt:
So far all of the Blau parts look exactly like the Audi parts coming off the car. The only exception is the bolt for the toothed belt tensioner, which is maybe 5 mm shorter:
Can't imagine that will make a difference. (Pardon the mess...)
Thanks for the great photos again, keep it up!
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Here you guys, did a little searching and found this old link from Brazil's writeup.
http://forums.quattroworld.com/rs6/msgs/1360.phtml
2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
Roy, WA
1. kday, why did You want to remove the cam sprockets ?
2. why did You remove the cam bar (holder) ? wouldn't they turn now slipping from the original position ? ora are You going to turn and set them just before putting the new belt ?
It's a necessary part of setting the timing with the new belt. You need to let the sprockets move while setting the belt tension. The alignment bar keys into the camshafts themselves, holding them in place, while the sprockets can rotate. With the crank held via the pin I showed earlier, and the cams held in place with the bar, the timing relationship is fixed, and the belt is free to move while being tensioned.
The could move a little now, which is why I was counter-holding with the pliers. But they can be restored to their correct position with the cam bar, which doesn't connect to the sprockets.
On the water pump issue, the water pump I removed yesterday had a metal impeller, but was not an Audi part. This is the third time on the timing belt, as it should be. The first time was done by Audi but they didn't do the pump:
The second time was obviously done by an independent. I don't think an Audi tech would use white-out on the cam sprockets. (Fortunately they didn't only use white-out to align the cams -- the timing was correct before I removed anything.)
Audi did replace the "beltdamper", which I thought was interesting. I didn't think that was a normal part of the service -- they don't mention it in the Bentley. Who knows what was motivating this extra cautious service interval...
They also replaced the cam bolts, which I guess I should do as well. I wonder how much this small bag of bolts I need from Audi is going to cost me...
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