How hard is it to get to the steering rack bolts?

[speedtrapped]

I bought some new stretch bolts, and would like to replace the ones that are in there. Why?, well the rack was removed and I don't think my mechanic replaced with new ones. They were cheap enough, was wondering if I would be able to do myself?

[yokust]

two easy from the rain tray, third one is not going to happen

[speedtrapped]

Thank you! Well 2 out of 3 not bad. I guess 3rd is next engine pull. Btw what is socket type?

[JSRS6]

IIRC torx or triple square.

[speedtrapped]

Ty Josh .

[lswing]

Hey, why was the rack removed, leaking seals? I've got a leak on mine, wondering how to get it out of the car, do you know what your mech did? Engine pull as in the books or a work around? Thanks!

[yokust]

I dont know if you could get the rack out with either the motor or trans still installed.

The headtsheilds covering the lower rack bolt cannot be removed with the motor/trans still installed.

If maybe someone had skinny enough little girl arms, might be able to reach in thru drivers tie rod opening to get bolt out once the pressure lines were removed. But I know I do way to many beer curls to fit in there

[lswing]

Thanks yokust, I really just want to put money into the car to make it fast, damn maintenance. This will be a good sized job...

[hahnmgh63]

That's why child slave labor should be legal, skinny little children's arms to help with these projects.

[lswing]

Ha, if only Audi would adopt Nike's business practices...all I can do is spend more money fixing other stuff to not feel bad about the $1500 for a leaking seal...

[Aronis]

you'll need an offset joint to get at them. It's a 12point socket type.

I tightened the top two two years ago....all is fine so far......I suspect the third is long gone.... LOL..

Mike

[Hy Octane]

When mine first came loose years ago, my Audi tech used a long socket extension with a kink in it to reach way down and tighten that 3rd bolt..Used a glob of loctite on each and no trouble since then.. It can be done, you need the right tool..

[yokust]

When mine first came loose years ago, my Audi tech used a long socket extension with a kink in it to reach way down and tighten that 3rd bolt..Used a glob of loctite on each and no trouble since then.. It can be done, you need the right tool..

You can do it on all other cars but the RS6, unless he cut a whole in the heatsheilds to get to the lower botl is the only way. I have done two racks on these cars, and bottom bolt is fully covered. Here is a pic of the manual of the covers over the rack.




And unless you remove the center and drivers side heatsheilds the lower bolt is not accesible.

On 4.2 n/a motors, 2.7t, and 2.8, they do not have those center covers to be able to access the rack bolts

[aussie rs6]

You can do it on all other cars but the RS6, unless he cut a whole in the heatsheilds to get to the lower botl is the only way. I have done two racks on these cars, and bottom bolt is fully covered. Here is a pic of the manual of the covers over the rack.




And unless you remove the center and drivers side heatsheilds the lower bolt is not accesible.

On 4.2 n/a motors, 2.7t, and 2.8, they do not have those center covers to be able to access the rack bolts

I have for second time had the steering rack bolts come loose at 45,000 miles, producing the charasteristic "groan" through the steering column at low speed when parking and not so much, but occasional groan when driving, when stress is placed on the steering rack mounting bolts by turning. The groans freak out the wife when driving the RS6!

First time was just after a transmission/engine pull and transmission replacement at 20,000 miles and the rack mounting bolts were not torqued up correctly by the dealer.: ( and only the two accesible bolts tightened up by dealer while engine in car, but I was not told that at the time!)

Second time now at 45,000 miles.

My indie mechanic could only tighten up 2 steering rack mounting bolts, with the one on the left hand side looking to the front very loose-finger tight.

Most likely the two (?) bolts that cannot be accessed without engine pull, are loose from the 20,000 mile installation and this results in outside accesible bolts coming loose with continous stress on the rack mounting.

If the Indie mechanic was of a simian flexible nature, he might be able get at the 3rd bolt that Aronis/Yokust/HyOctane speak of, but the 4th bolt needs the engine pull.

The lesson to be learned here is to double check that all four steering rack mounting bolts should be torqued correctly with new stretch bolts before the engine/trans go back in.

I have asked mechanic next time the two accesible bolts come loose ( and they will given the stress on the rack mounting) to look at drilling the heads of the bolts and wiring them after torqued up correctly.

Although a wonderful beast, such is life with a C5 RS6 when the Audi dealer mechanic screws up.

Talk about the 'Law of unintended consequences'! and 'Stitch in time saves nine'

Oh well, when the TC goes as it will, I can install an ACE converter, my 3" catless miltek down pipes and new steering rack bolts plus replace all the other sensors that you cant get at without an engine pull!

You dont have to be a masochist to be an RS6 owner, but it sure helps!

john

[yokust]

And just to let everyone know, really only the pass side bolt under the coolant bottle ever comes loose. the drivers side since it has two bolts rarely comes loose, unless the pass side has been loose for an extended period of time.

[Brav]

I have been tracking down a clunk for a while, new control arm bushings didnt work.. maybe this is it.

[speedtrapped]

Brav, my clunking grew louder and louder....it was the rack bolts, NO more clunking

[Brav]

Yea, mine is getting worse. Even some grinding when going over steep driveway at angle when wheels are turned in. Was yours causing any high speed vibration?