NEED HELP - Lot's of lights on Dash

[Gustaf]

Hi Guys,
I am hoping to tap in to the wisdom of the group.
Tonight, I was on an on ramp pulling onto the highway and dropped the shifter into 'S' and jumped on it. Once, the car hit redline and shifted all the lights on the dash came on (ABS, brake, battery, CEL, PRDNS inverted). I pulled over and noticed that the tach was stuck at about 4000 and the spedo about 100. I immediately pulled over and things seemed to be running fine otherwise. I shut the car down and it fired back up. Luckily I was only about a mile or so from home and I made it home OK but the idiot lights were still on the dash. Another weird behavior was that the dashboard lights and all the switch and radio lights would go off when I drove but would come back on if I came to a stop. Anyway, I was able to pull the codes when I got home and here is a dump of them:

Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 01L-927-156.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 4B0 927 156 FL
Component and/or Version: AG5 01L 4.2l5VT USA 0305
Software Coding: 0000002
Work Shop Code: WSC 00000 785 00200
VCID: 76E83EED785C
1 Fault Found:

18159 - Supply Voltage: too High
P1751 - 003 - Mechanical Failure - MIL ON

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Address 01: Engine Labels: 077-907-558-BCY.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 4D1 907 558 D
Component and/or Version: 4.2l V8/5VT G 0003
Software Coding: 0006752
Work Shop Code: WSC 00000 785 00200
VCID: 2F66CB89C786
5 Faults Found:

16840 - EVAP System: Very Small Leak Detected
P0456 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
16947 - System Voltage: Too High
P0563 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
18032 - MIL Request Signal Active (Check TCM for errors too!)
P1624 - 008 - Implausible Signal
18057 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from ABS Controller
P1649 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
16885 - Vehicle Speed Sensor: Implausible Signal
P0501 - 004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent

Readiness: 0000 0000

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Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 4B0-614-517.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 4B0 614 517 AD
Component and/or Version: ESP 5.7 RS 6 2310
Software Coding: 06697
Work Shop Code: WSC 00000
VCID: 63CE77B9DBCE
2 Faults Found:

00532 - Supply Voltage B+
35-10 - - - Intermittent
18256 - Please check DTC Memory of Engine Controller
P1848 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

From my perspective, it looks like the alternator decided to checkout. The other thing that makes me think that is that when I was pulling the codes with the car running, the voltage gauge was pegged on 16 volts.

So any help you guys can provide would be much appreciated.

Sorry for the long post.

Dave

[vodeftones]

Yup alternator for sure, usually they fry pretty quick when they peg the volt gauge

[JSRS6]

Yep, that was my first thought as well. Sounds like the alternator is shorted out at the voltage regulator, overloading your circuits. Don't drive it anymore.

[Gustaf]

Thanks guys!!

Now the hunt for an alternator begins. From what I've seen in other posts, they don't look easy to find.

[na1mt]

I would recommend locating a local rebuilder in your area.....usually these shops turn it around in one day and cost about $150 for rebuild.

[skribe]

Yep and unlike 98% of the problems on our cars, the alternator is actually pretty easy to get out

[Elevens]

What !! no Engine Drop? Impossible....................

[skribe]

I know, somebody screwed up with that design. The alternator should be wedged between the cylinder banks or something. But no, there it is just hanging down there right at the bottom of the engine bay.

I took note recently, the 20th time I reattached my passenger lower intercooler hose. It looks like you could just move a few lines out of the way and unbolt it, don't think you'd even need to release tension on the serpentine belt.

[vodeftones]

The alternator is actually wedged between the cylinder banks and under the intake manifolds on a VW Touareg V10 TDI and it is a bitch to do. Ask me how I know.

[hahnmgh63]

I was tempted to buy this one myself but I'll pass on the info. It is the right part#, factory rebuilt part # that is, whoever the factory rebuilder is?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Audi-RS6...sories&vxp=mtr

[Gustaf]

Sorry for the delayed reply guys. The voltage regulator definitely went bad. I ended up having a local rebuilder rebuild the alternator after I took it out. Was back up an running in 2 days and it only cost me $175.
I can confirm that it is a pretty easy job in case anyone is curious.
Thanks for everyones help!!

[Elevens]

Glad to see your back in business Gustaf. Just for the record how was it removed. Did it Involve a Bumper pull? or did It just slip out from below? Let us know.....................

[Gustaf]

Slipped out from below. Just remove the intercooler pipe, oil lines from the oil filter, 2 wires from the back of the alternator, and 2 bolt holding the alternator to the block.
The biggest issue was getting it to slide off the top bracket because the alternator has a slide nut that compresses against the bracket when you tighten it. Other than that, it took about an hour to get it out and another hour to get it in.

[Elevens]

Thank's. That's good to know for when and If I have to do mine............................

[bentleyha]

same happened to me when i was just getting ready for a road trip to NC. from NYC. :-(

[kismetcapitan]

alternators dying can ruin your day, but (excepting that horrific Toureg design!!) they're usually a simple fix. Alternators themselves don't really die - magnets and wires just don't break. It's the diodes and related circuitry, and if you're handy with tools, you can replace all the parts that wear out/get fried with kits that run maybe $50?

[ryan4186]

Ok, so I was super happy to find this thread (saving grace)!. Had my alternator rebuilt with new regulator and still getting the battery light on the dash. Took it to a local indy shop and they are thinking it's the ignition switch. Thoughts?

[Gustaf]

Do you have VAGCOM to see if any codes are being thrown?