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Thread: Manual Conversion Thread - RS6 with 01E

  1. #181
    Registered User ttboost's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vtraudt View Post
    Good to know, thanks.

    Currently building my friends RS6 (billet turbos, SMIC, DP, exhaust) but will be on stock TC and stock tranny for a while.

    Need to determine how much I need to detune/cap the torque. The ZF 5Hp24A has the larger bell housing (to accommodate the larger TC, but the tranny is pretty much standard 5HP24. Even raising the line pressure (more torque capacity from the clutches) will put more stress on the baskets, ditto the firmer shifts. Thinking maybe cap low/mid range boost to 20 psi and then gradually raise to 22 psi (stock MAP limit).

    Haven't found much real world experience on maxing out the tranny/TC. If anyone has seen high torque Tiptronic builds, I would love to see.

    Finding and swapping trannies is no easy task, so need to err on the safe side until ready for manual swap.
    With those mods, you will not be on the stock transmission & TC "for a while". It will be considerably shorter than a while. Also, with stock turbine housings, anything more than 15-16psi is just netting you more hot air and way less timing. If you "billet" turbos are NOT utilizing the stock turbine side, you should be good for more boost.

  2. #182
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    @716YETI, if you're ever in MA, I would kill to get a ride in your car!
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  3. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by ttboost View Post
    With those mods, you will not be on the stock transmission & TC "for a while". It will be considerably shorter than a while. Also, with stock turbine housings, anything more than 15-16psi is just netting you more hot air and way less timing. If you "billet" turbos are NOT utilizing the stock turbine side, you should be good for more boost.
    Yeah, will have to bring the torque up slowly.

    Turbo is fine, no worries there. Built and running plenty of them. Just not on 'fragile' tranny.

    "Hot air" is generated by the compressor side. Running a compressor outside its high efficiency range (shown as efficiency lines in % on compressor maps) results in 'hot air'. At 50% efficiency, half of the input energy (the turbine is the 'motor', driving the compressor) is converted into heat, and only the other half into pressure increase. Our setup would not have any issues running WAY past the 22 psi (stock MAP) limit. I am also pretty sure the internals (Cosworth surely didn't skimp on the goodies) are quite strong. So the engine is good for plenty of torque and power. No worries there.

  4. #184
    Registered User ttboost's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vtraudt View Post
    Yeah, will have to bring the torque up slowly.

    Turbo is fine, no worries there. Built and running plenty of them. Just not on 'fragile' tranny.

    "Hot air" is generated by the compressor side. Running a compressor outside its high efficiency range (shown as efficiency lines in % on compressor maps) results in 'hot air'. At 50% efficiency, half of the input energy (the turbine is the 'motor', driving the compressor) is converted into heat, and only the other half into pressure increase. Our setup would not have any issues running WAY past the 22 psi (stock MAP) limit. I am also pretty sure the internals (Cosworth surely didn't skimp on the goodies) are quite strong. So the engine is good for plenty of torque and power. No worries there.
    I also have a lot of experience working with and fabricating turbo systems, and understand the difference between hot and cold sides. I also know how to read a compressor map. I guess my point about the turbine side is it's so unbelievably small on this engine, it's easy to over spin, which in turn over spins your compressor. Sorry I wasn't clear, I thought this was assumed. I agree with your lower boost mentality, as we tried to big boost route too, only to find it plummet like a stone after 4k, which we thought it would do, but had to prove it. Was worse with the 6 speed manual, quicker revving and all...

  5. #185
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    Typically the axles break before the 01E.

    Launching isn't all it's cracked up to be, especially with 1st gear being so short. First gear is cut on the main shaft so re-gearing is not feasible at all.

    2nd and 3rd is when the torque tries to shove your chubby cheeks into your ear canals
    2012 Q7 TDI S-Line - 2010 GTI - 2007 A3 3.2 S-Line - 2003 RS6
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  6. #186
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    I hate the 1st gear on the 01e, complete waste, drives me nuts, I pray someone finds an auto fix before I ever want to put that in mine

  7. #187
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    Quote Originally Posted by fukinavit View Post
    I hate the 1st gear on the 01e, complete waste, drives me nuts, I pray someone finds an auto fix before I ever want to put that in mine
    Can you launch in second?

  8. #188
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    I would think not, not without a lot of slippage. can't speak for the RS6, I have the 6 speed In my 2.7t.

  9. #189
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    Anyone ever look into the billet flywheels from TTV? Kind of a middle ground between aluminum and steel... Price is pretty nice for other models.... They actually have a RS6/V8 listing...

    http://ttvracing.com/engine-types/?m...ls#prettyPhoto
    BB GT28's w/ Tial Wastegates, Full 3" Open Exhaust, Wagners, Billet Triple Disk Converter, Built Trans, Exedy Friction Disks, ECU/TCU Tuned, 450/AEM400/1000cc/AFPR, E85, R8 Coils, Nubcake Tuned. Fastest RS6 in the USA :)

  10. #190
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    Quote Originally Posted by s8prtotype View Post
    Anyone ever look into the billet flywheels from TTV? Kind of a middle ground between aluminum and steel... Price is pretty nice for other models.... They actually have a RS6/V8 listing...

    http://ttvracing.com/engine-types/?m...ls#prettyPhoto
    Initial flywheels I had made were a little heavier than these at 8.2kg and the consensus was that, combined with the available appropriate clutch kits, there was too much noise.

    The steel units I currently have produced are around 11kg and it seems to work well.

    It's much easier to make an aluminum flywheel, so many are hesitant to do them in all steel. I, however, take the road less traveled....
    2012 Q7 TDI S-Line - 2010 GTI - 2007 A3 3.2 S-Line - 2003 RS6
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  11. #191
    Registered User BigD2500HD's Avatar
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    sorry to bring up an old thread... but i'm about to tackle this on my rs6. my question is about labor time. It will be done in a full German specific maintenance and performance shop, so everything will be as easy to do as possible(not on jacks and all the right tools). how much time am i looking at ifall goes as planned?

  12. #192
    Registered User BigD2500HD's Avatar
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    .... oh and Steve... i need a conversion kit. :-)

  13. #193
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigD2500HD View Post
    sorry to bring up an old thread... but i'm about to tackle this on my rs6. my question is about labor time. It will be done in a full German specific maintenance and performance shop, so everything will be as easy to do as possible(not on jacks and all the right tools). how much time am i looking at ifall goes as planned?
    All depends on what else you plan on doing besides the basic kit.

    Rough labor time if everything comes apart and goes back together without a hitch - expect your car to be on the lift, engine on a hoist for ~30 hours labor.

    From there, add in time for stuff going awry, can easily be added days of storage while you wait for replacement parts to be forged from the rarest of metals known to man and then shipped from the wooded hills of Deutschland, then added hours of labor to sort whatever's gone wrong.

    While you're doing the conversion, what else are you going to find? Seeping seals and gaskets can easily add tens of hours to the labor cost, unless the shop you're going with has an owner who's willing to let you tinker while parts trickle in. Freshen up at the same time with little stuff like Bufkin pipe, R8 coils and adapter, Stern/Apikol motor mounts, poly diff mounts for reducing driveline lash (you'll really want that going to the 01E), etc... it all adds up!

    You're in The People's Democratic Republic of California per your profile, so no dice on gutting precats, but you can help get your engine bay temp down by having the headers/collectors/downpipes bead blasted, ceramic coated, and wrapped with Ti exhaust wrap, and a nice blanket on each of the snails will finish off that piece of the job. Speaking of snails, now's a great time to check for excessive shaft play (rebuild imminent if so), and consider going with Wagner IC kit for better temp deltas.

    Since you're going to need the proper tune for manual, you'll probably be looking at what you can get away with WRT the SAI, EGR, EVAP, etc... I'm not 100% on how CA does their CARB stuff, but here in VA (DC area) with the emissions inspection every 2 years, eliminating things that should show up in readiness causes automatic failure & and order to fix and re-inspect at cost.

    TL;DR version: 30 hours labor minimum if everything goes to plan. Which it probably won't.

    HTH
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  14. #194
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigD2500HD View Post
    sorry to bring up an old thread... but i'm about to tackle this on my rs6. my question is about labor time. It will be done in a full German specific maintenance and performance shop, so everything will be as easy to do as possible(not on jacks and all the right tools). how much time am i looking at ifall goes as planned?
    Assume there are other CA cars with 01E conversion? There are states where these conversions have been flagged by emissions.. and based on CA being the top dog of the hard asses when it comes to emissions, just curious.

    good luck with conversion
    Last edited by urs6ville; August 11th, 2015 at 19:00.

  15. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigD2500HD View Post
    .... oh and Steve... i need a conversion kit. :-)
    I sent you a PM on this with my contact info for more details.
    2012 Q7 TDI S-Line - 2010 GTI - 2007 A3 3.2 S-Line - 2003 RS6
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  16. #196
    Registered User ttboost's Avatar
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    I think Raven has done a bunch of them now? I would imagine they would have them sorted?

  17. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveKen View Post
    I'm back at it and SAI is removed and so are the aux radiators.

    It's unbelievable how much stuff there is just to add the two radiators.



    Since the engine was out, I removed everything and really only retained #19 & #36 from everything above. I had to drop the steering rack to remove #32, but it wasn't bad at all.

    Anyway, #36 is a group of short hoses and custom elbows that looked like I made it. Without buying the non-hot weather package replacements, I decided to plug the tube at the elbow. Another plug was required at #19 where tube #18 goes.

    I found these caps, which hopefully should work:


    Here they are installed on the two components:
    Hi all. This is the set up i've been running for quite sometime; however, the darn caps from napa keep ruining, cracking, etc. causing coolant seeps. Does anyone know what the factory part numbers are for those metal lines (shown in pics above) without the outlets/inlets for the aux cooler hoses that are now deleted? Or, a source for better caps that don't crap out?

    Thanks!
    Paul

  18. #198
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    I had the same issue with the rubber caps. After the first set started leaking, I decided to braze some copper caps on instead. It has now been several years (five?) and a lot of miles, and they’re still holding up great. Aluminum caps would probably be better since the lines are aluminum, but copper ones were more readily available.
    RS6 #1, 01E, 2.5" straight pipes, AMD Stage 1 6MT tune, 460awhp/530awtq on AMD's Mustang dyno. TOTALLED.. RS6 #2, Ebony Black Pearl on black/silver combination with carbon, up and running with 6 gears and AMD tune.

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