Manual Conversion Thread - RS6 with 01E

[SteveKen]

I'm initiating this thread for the 6 speed manual conversion.

First off, I can attest that the RS6 slushbox can be removed without pulling the motor. I've done it at a leisurely pace over the last few days with the car on stands. No lift. It wasn't fun, but it can be done.

The build starts off assuming that the automatic is removed and everything else is in proper order.

I'll be adding a parts list somewhere down the line as well.

I'll be pulling the flex plate, crank plug and start the assembly tonight. Pictures will be forthcoming.

If all goes well, the car will be at Carlisle in 5 days. Stay tuned. . .

[V8weight]

Pretty ambitious schedule you've set for yourself, good luck to you!

[ben916]

Is this a stock 01E or has there been any strengthening occurred to it so it will handle the insane amounts of torque to be tossed at it?

[SteveKen]

The only 'non-stock/OEM' items are the flywheel, adapter, starter, clutch and pressure plate.

The transmission was recently rebuilt with a new 1st gear (as my original one was worn), updated 1-2 shift collar with updated synchros, 0.56 6th gearset and a 4:1 Torsen. I don't plan to drive it any different than I normally do with the automatic, so I think the stock gears internals should do just fine.

[Carbonman]

My 01E is being built to the exact specs at Steve's and I think it should do fine as long as it's not abused. I think if people start launching the car or really driving it like an idiot, there will be problems, but it can't be any worse than the ZF coming out (two failures in 92K miles). The nice thing is the tall 6th gear will make highway cruising something beautiful; 1800-1900 RPM at 65-70 will be awesome.

Steve's kit is a pretty sweet setup. Check it out if you're interested - it really takes a lot of guess work out of the swap.

[TozoM8]

Good luck Steve! Remember, it's just nuts and bolts.

[SteveKen]

Good luck Steve! Remember, it's just nuts and bolts.

I kind feel like the nut, doing this on my back. I can't thank you enough for the advice from our conversation.

Also, I didn't even come close to your time for removal. Maybe X2 or X3 a best???

[SteveKen]

The first update with some meat has me cleaning up whatever I can and removing the flex plate. Here's the view:



Note in the center of the crank is a plug that needs to be removed as it interferes with the trans input shaft and pilot bearing. Here's a close up. You can just barely see the line separating the plug form the crank flange:



It wasn't going to be easily removed, so I had to resort to pushing it out by threading the ID and installing a socket pushed by a 3/4 - 10 bolt:



I drilled it out to open up the ID before tapping it, but there might be a metric tap that works better on the as-received ID. The SAE tap and bolt was easier to source in a pinch the last time I had to do this.



and the result:





cleaned up a a bit more and installed the flywheel.



There was no way for me to get the torque spot on due to the fact that the 17mm socket wouldn't go on some of the bolts if an adjacent head was turned just the wrong way. I'm probably at torque plus 0 - 30 degrees or so. The OEM flex plate had round head socket head triple square cap screws, but they don't make them in the length that I need. My flywheel supplier includes the bolts and they're the perfect length. 30mm I think? BTW, the aluminum flywheel doesn't require the torque plus 180 deg procedure.

That's it for today. Not much progress, but I forgot about the pressure plate bolts and South Bend didn't supply them, so that stopped me in my tracks.

Also note all the heat shielding that m S6 did not have:



Steering rack is cocooned up there somewhere. I'm going to need to figure out where to make an opening to route the clutch hydraulics. I know I can see the plenum area drains from the top, but all this heat shielding is most likely another source for debris which could lead to water ingress. Consider this extra tidbit a PSA to clean out the drains and try and pull all the debris up and out, rather than push it down through.

Tomorrow I hope to have the clutch & PP installed and have the slave cylinder hydraulics routed. I'm going to replace all the wastegate hoses and the plastic tee fitting from the N75 with a $2 brass one that I got from aquarium section at Pet Smart. Yes, really.

[hahnmgh63]

Steve, with that Aluminum flywheel you may need some custom chips? I dropped a 3.6ltr 911 '91 year motor in my older '74 911S and went to a lightweight steel flywheel, Aluminum pressure plate package that removed #26 off of the OEM dual mass flywheel and the engine would die after the revs dropped from higher RPM's as is was so much more responsive without the extra weight that the fuel injection's idle circuit couldn't keep up and catch the engine as the revs dropped at idle without a well timed throttle blip around ~1200~1500rpm's to slow the deceleration. I had some custom chips made and all is pretty well now. Of course our Motronic is much more advance than my 1991 911 motor's?

[skribe]

I dropped a 3.6ltr 911 '91 year motor in my older '74 911S

[JSRS6]

Wait...skribe=Andrew=Andy^^^? Har Har.

[SteveKen]

Steve, with that Aluminum flywheel you may need some custom chips? I dropped a 3.6ltr 911 '91 year motor in my older '74 911S and went to a lightweight steel flywheel, Aluminum pressure plate package that removed #26 off of the OEM dual mass flywheel and the engine would die after the revs dropped from higher RPM's as is was so much more responsive without the extra weight that the fuel injection's idle circuit couldn't keep up and catch the engine as the revs dropped at idle without a well timed throttle blip around ~1200~1500rpm's to slow the deceleration. I had some custom chips made and all is pretty well now. Of course our Motronic is much more advance than my 1991 911 motor's?

The flywheel pictured is 9 pounds lighter than the solid steel UrS6+ flywheel. I'm hoping that it's not an issue as I've talked with a few folks that are running a similar flywheel with the 4.2 and received positive feedback.

[hahnmgh63]

Hey, the 911 is stripped, RS style carpet & door panels, no radio or A/C. Weights #2280 and with about 300bhp it goes like hell. Suspension modified with Monoball joints a spherical bushings. It is a blast to drive but not on long trips as there is no sound deadening.

[Carbonman]

Steve,

Looking very good! Thanks for the pictures of the progress. Did you end up using the slave clutch cylinder and stainless flex line from USP Motorsports? I ended up getting one based off your suggestion and I think it will make the routing a lot easier than the ridgid setup.

When you drilled the plug out, was there a gap behind the plug to allow you to tap all the way through? How much force did you have to apply to the bolt to get the plug loose? Also, if I tapped the as-received ID, would there be something for the bolt to land on to push the plug out, or did you need to drill it out a little more to be able to get a larger bolt in place?

Could you take a couple pictures of the car from the front and sides so we can get a better perspective on your workspace? The pictures make it look like you've got tons of space to work from, but I think you are doing this laying on your back, which is amazing!

Keep up the good work and stay safe!

[JSRS6]

Hey steve, pilot bearing?

[Carbonman]

Looks like it's already installed in the flywheel.

[JSRS6]

It does, doesnt it...

[Carbonman]

A quick update on this project - Steve shot me a short message yesterday - he's got the tranny and engine mated up - and wishing he was doing this on a lift! I'm guessing he's probably got all the major stuff done by now. There are a lot of projects going on out there with some cool stuff, but as far as old-school bust your seeds hard work - this guy's got everyone trumped. RS6 6-speed conversion on jack stands: only a real man gets to tell that story!