Manual Conversion Thread - RS6 with 01E

[Carbonman]

Steve, so the threaded hole in the adapter was the main cause of the crack? or because your bolt was too long?

The hole that is circled (see the picture above) is an unused position. It's not really necessary and the 70mm bolt length wasn't readily available. The problem was a 75mm bolt was put into that position by mistake and caused the damage to the block when tightened.

[ben916]

General comment: this forum is spoiled! Lifts are a rare commodity. Though Steve is indeed "the man" for doing this job on jackstands, it's not a rare thing in the true DIY community. Having a lift is the rare thing. I've pulled countless S4 engines on jackstands both with subframe drop methods and lift out. I pulled and rebuilt my Esprit engine all on jackstands in a cramped space. It can be done.

Nice Seagull thread post....
The issue of a lift is where to put it (real estate and vertical space) versus obtaining one...

Steve is THE man for braving the waters of 6sp manual conversion by himself and with an aggressive time line...

[Brazil]

Thanks, yes, I know.

[SteveKen]

Here's the damage:





Here's the story as has pretty much already been relayed by Erik. The threaded hole exists in the adapter plate, but a 70mm M10 bolt is spec'd. These are pretty hard to find so my kit's instructions had this hole labeled as not used. I'm a dummy. No excuses. I'm either going to source the 70mm screw or plug the threaded hole in the adapter.

So now I was wrong in assuming that the crack breached the rear main seal area, but was right thinking that it made it into the soft plug.







Side view of the crack below the soft plug



It seems as if the crack stopped once it hit the beefier section of the block.

The flange removed:



Anyone have any ideas on my options for this? Honestly, I'd like to try and have this fixed.

I'm thinking that a saw cut through the crack and filled with weld or some other space age Billy Mays type material to prevent the leak. New soft plug (since I pear shaped the other one) and then It will be good to go.

I really don't need to use the upper starter flange since the upper bolts attaches to the adapter and not the block anyway.

I need to find out who can do it, either on site or at a shop. The soft plug hole would probably have to be machined if its welded.

[Brav]

Balls of steel.. I cant imagine tackling this myself. Sorry to hear about the block. Good luck on the completion!

[hahnmgh63]

I think a reputable welder could Tig fill that all along the crack then a good machine shop to re-machine where the soft plug goes and your all fixed.

[kevin]

It's toast.

[TozoM8]

Since the starter bolts to the spacer, that piece has no funcion anyway. A good JB weld will fix the crack. I would not worry about it for a second.

[PALETTE]

Since the starter bolts to the spacer, that piece has no func

ion anyway. A good JB weld will fix the crack. I would not worry about it for a second.

There you go! Toss it back in and your up and running in no time!

[hahnmgh63]

I know some think JB Weld is a miracle cure but I would feel much better with an aluminum weld. Expansion & Contraction and the oil at the end of the soft plug all working together to unseat the epoxy from the JB wld fix. Especially considering the time to take it all apart and put it back together if it leaks later.

[Carbonman]

I think TozoM8 is right - it's a worry, but I think a pretty lucky break considering. Here's what I would do:

1.) Find a local welder who can weld on his back. Steve - you can drop half and engine and change a tranny on your back, I'm guessing you know a welder who can lay a decent bead under a car. Get his read on it, but I'm guessing he an go right over the top of the crack and get a pretty darn good result. He might remove a bit of material first to help hold, but let him tell give you the plan


2.) JB weld the hairline on the inner surface. Most of the leak potential comes from the outside and this will be resolved by the actual weld. All you're concerned about is stopping any leakage along the hairline crack and as you and Gabor both point out, the adapter ring bears the starter load so there's really no stress to be concerned about.


I think a decent welder can make this a non-issue for you.

BTW - I love your ability to poke fun at yourself and downplay this whole issue. That's a skill a lot of us lack, myself definitely included, and should learn.

Erik

[Elevens]

You have my Utmost respect for taking on a job like this. Truly amazing, not only did you do it with out removing the engine but on your back also. That's insane. Very sorry to hear about the setback, but I am sure you'll straighten it out one way or another. Good luck and keep us informed....................





Vinny

[micdee]

R.E.S.P.E.C.T.

I think of myself of an amatuer DIY-er... but when I see this I think I know nuffin...
I hope you will figure it all out.

[Matt@ravenms]

Hey Guys Hate to Chime in, and tread jack.... Steve, Sorry to hear the unfortunate news.

Our shop car is Under the Knife again as well, Not for being Broken but for testing.

What everyone should know is that we are running a Alum Flywheel on our RS6. Which is designed off the B4 S4 Flywheels, with a couple of changes made.

Steveken's Alum flywheel is pretty much the Same Flywheel as what we are using, Since we both have the same supplier that make them. Check back on previous posts for pictures.

Couple thoughts: the flywheel shouldn't give you any issues with fast RPM drop. As you know, the B5 guys have been running LWFWs for a decade now without issue. The engine management is a bit more sophisticated than the '91 911 system.

Since you haven't drivin a RS6 w a Alum flywheel, don't speak so soon. The Rpm does drop pretty quick, and has a hard time w engagement off the line.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tNGYS...eature=related Check out the video of me at Buttonwillow. The RPM drops pretty quick between shifts or down shifting. So, we have come up with a Fix.

I have now made a Solid Steel flywheel to take place of the Alum flywheel. I'm just about finish installing it on our RS6, and everything looks Great!

Once the car is Back together, I will post up a Review on it.


Also..... I have removed the extra two small radiators behind IC, Got rid of the Stock IC's for ER IC's, Ditch the Trans/OIL cooler for a Setra oil cooler, and Removed the SAI

My next step is GOING BIG. I have a Set of Tial 770 turbos design for direct bolt on w Divorce flange exhaust, full exhaust made and a WaterMeth kit.

Will keep everyone posted


Sorry to tread jack Steve

[JSRS6]

Veddy nice!
And don't being so sorry with jacking off the thread with the sexy car talk.

[skribe]

Ugh, I feel for you... I've pulled similar bonehead moves in my day. Just have to shrug it off.

Looking forward to the day when brave souls like you have worked the bugs out of this conversion, and for that I thank you!

[bmlee007]

Steve, too bad you weren't able to bring it to Carlisle, I was looking forward to seeing the conversion. Turned out to be a pretty nice day, and I finally got to drive my beast for a couple hours. Seems to be good to go for the trip to CT this weekend, and with some mildly spirited driving on the way home (hooked up with a boxster, 911 turbo S who didn't want to play, and a Cobalt!?!?) still managed over 23 mpg. Oh, and the Cobalt got pulled over, he just had to be the first in line coming into town.

[716YETI]

You have the patience of a saint, seriously. Actually you may be insane. lol
Without having to search the world wide web for answers, I have some questions...
This thread is new but didn't I see a thread from last summer where you were selling these kits? So this is not your first install? Or is it? Sorry for the confusion.
Has this conversion been tested and proven good? If so when can you do this install for me?