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Thread: Manual Conversion Thread - RS6 with 01E

  1. #19
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    Erik. You give me too much credit. I emailed you while my directions for the bolt hole locations and lengths, etc. were being printed out because I couldn't remember where they went.

    Well, I started a few bolts before I realized I couldn't remember and I damaged the block by inserting a bolt that was too long into the wrong hole. Long story short, I found this out this afternoon so now the motor is ready to come down in the AM and I'm going to be installing my spare motor.

    I should be more upset with myself at this point. Oh well, live and learn. I can't even follow my own directions.

    Theoretically I could still make it to Carlisle on Saturday, but then I'd be revisiting a lot of things as I'd still need to do the timing belt and water pump replacement among other things to it.

    Anyway, back to the build pictures and thoughts and then I hope to get some thoughts on how I should proceed.
    2012 Q7 TDI S-Line - 2010 GTI - 2007 A3 3.2 S-Line - 2003 RS6
    2001 Honda S2000 - 1977 Honda CBR 750-F2 - 1965 GMC 1500 WideSide

  2. #20
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    Back to the conversion project before it got derailed.

    Perspective of the only garage I've got available to me at this time.



    reminds me of this shot taken many many years ago of a B5 S4 project:



    More orientation pics:





    Here's a pic of the firewall just to the right of the brake booster. I already removed the rubber plug where the fluid reservoir feeds the clutch master cylinder



    And after removing the lower plug (which is seam sealed in place) by cutting around it. The SS flex hose from the USP slave cylinder kit is routed and ready.



    Here's the hydraulic line before I routed it. the plenum drain on the driver's side serves as a grommet. There's a tab you must cut and route the hose through.



    With the heat shield that covers the steering rack pulled back, you can see how the cable is routed. I bought a hose retaining clamp at the hardware store that's similar to the stock one for securing the hose once it's in place.





    This is the OEM nut that hods the clamp in place. There already exists a threaded post.



    Pic of the area ready to accept the 01E:

    2012 Q7 TDI S-Line - 2010 GTI - 2007 A3 3.2 S-Line - 2003 RS6
    2001 Honda S2000 - 1977 Honda CBR 750-F2 - 1965 GMC 1500 WideSide

  3. #21
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    Transmission. I picked this up for $200 but had to do a full rebuild using upgraded synchros and 1-2 shift collar, new 1st drive gear, 0.5 tall 6th gearset and 4:1 torsen. Here it is all ready to go with new TO bearing supplied with the South Bend clutch:



    And with the adapter plate installed. I used some tapered sockets to line everything up before tightening the three screws



    More perspective pics of the trans ready for installation.





    2012 Q7 TDI S-Line - 2010 GTI - 2007 A3 3.2 S-Line - 2003 RS6
    2001 Honda S2000 - 1977 Honda CBR 750-F2 - 1965 GMC 1500 WideSide

  4. #22
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    OK, more pics with the trans installed. This proves that it can be done without the need for engine removal. There is a trick to getting it in though with a special sequence of x - y - z movements to clear all the obstacles.







    Right when I saw the oil stain here I knew what had happened.



    I decided to eliminate this screw as the length was very hard to source.



    The adapter still has the M10 threaded hole in it though and I didn't have my install diagram with me and made the grave error.



    Crack is whack.

    Can it be fixed? Maybe. I've basically written it off though and now have another project of tearing it down when I get the chance. If I decide to start another project where I need it, I'll look into the feasibility of a repair. I can always source another block as I know of a secret stash.

    Another avenue is to part it out for the internals and top end. There's go to be some moolah in that.

    More to follow, but I'm debating on what to do now that I've got the whole motor coming down and out and will most likely have to wait for a timing belt and H2O pump kit to arrive.

    Here are some things I'm considering:

    1. Removing the aux rads and all unnecessary plumbing because of the aux rads.
    2. Removing the SAI pump and all the plumbing and having block off plates fabbed up.
    3. Routing the oil lines through the trans cooler loops to add additional oil cooling.

    Any thoughts on these?


    2012 Q7 TDI S-Line - 2010 GTI - 2007 A3 3.2 S-Line - 2003 RS6
    2001 Honda S2000 - 1977 Honda CBR 750-F2 - 1965 GMC 1500 WideSide

  5. #23
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    Kind of an aside on the plenum drains.

    They ar ehard to gt to but I recommend tring to clean them out or at least inspect them to see if they are clogged.

    Here's my pass side one from underneath:



    And the driver's side:



    Also behind the ECU box. Yuk.

    2012 Q7 TDI S-Line - 2010 GTI - 2007 A3 3.2 S-Line - 2003 RS6
    2001 Honda S2000 - 1977 Honda CBR 750-F2 - 1965 GMC 1500 WideSide

  6. #24
    Registered User Aronis's Avatar
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    LMAO! now that's a DIY man's man!!

  7. #25
    Registered User MaxRS6's Avatar
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    Wow!!!!- I am not worthy to even look at the pics...0(

    Thanks for taking the time to share the experience with us
    210K miles rolled

  8. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveKen View Post

    Here are some things I'm considering:

    1. Removing the aux rads and all unnecessary plumbing because of the aux rads.
    2. Removing the SAI pump and all the plumbing and having block off plates fabbed up.
    3. Routing the oil lines through the trans cooler loops to add additional oil cooling.
    YES, YES, and YES

    what tranny mounts are you planning on using? Advanced Automotion has the euro S6 v8 01E tranny mounts. I was told those would line up the drivetrain the best.
    2003 RS6 - forsale

  9. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveKen View Post



    The adapter still has the M10 threaded hole in it though and I didn't have my install diagram with me and made the grave error.
    Steve, so the threaded hole in the adapter was the main cause of the crack? or because your bolt was too long?
    2003 RS6 - forsale

  10. #28
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    I'm with you Terry on the Secondary Air Injection pump. What does the thing really do? It only injects the air on start-up for about 1 minute or so so does it really help emission much, No. It shouldn't affect those going to emission testing as the car would already be warmed up, the only problem would be to have somebody custom code the ECU chip to code it out I think. When I put my car back together, hopefully next month sometime, I'm going to block it all off for now. Why not save another 5#'s and some complextity by getting rid of it?
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
    2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
    Roy, WA

  11. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by hahnmgh63 View Post
    I'm with you Terry on the Secondary Air Injection pump. What does the thing really do? It only injects the air on start-up for about 1 minute or so so does it really help emission much, No. It shouldn't affect those going to emission testing as the car would already be warmed up, the only problem would be to have somebody custom code the ECU chip to code it out I think. When I put my car back together, hopefully next month sometime, I'm going to block it all off for now. Why not save another 5#'s and some complextity by getting rid of it?

    viper will remove it from the ecu coding.

    actually, what it does is act like a EGR valve. recycle partial exhaust gas back into the intake system to reduce the amount of emissions as your engine warms up to optimal operating temperatures.
    in my opinion, very little emissions compared to gutting your cats.
    2003 RS6 - forsale

  12. #30
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    actually, the SAI and all of the components will probably be more than 5 lbs.

    imagine the amount of room you open up also for a meth injection kit or proper oil catch cans.
    2003 RS6 - forsale

  13. #31
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    Exactly Terry, mine doesn't run for more than about 1 minute on a cold startup so the car and the Catalytic converters are definitley up to operating temp so it is a real placebo to add to the car for a slight start-up change in emissions.
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
    2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
    Roy, WA

  14. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by hahnmgh63 View Post
    Exactly Terry, mine doesn't run for more than about 1 minute on a cold startup so the car and the Catalytic converters are definitley up to operating temp so it is a real placebo to add to the car for a slight start-up change in emissions.
    yea! so, what's the point of the parasitic components if you're planning running catless?

    i can get some machined up if someone has dimensions of the flange
    2003 RS6 - forsale

  15. #33
    Registered User Aronis's Avatar
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    I did not see your photo above my post..

    I am very sorry to read about the crack.

    How are you going to pull the engine with your car on blocks in that tight space?

    Mike

  16. #34
    Registered User Brazil's Avatar
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    Steve, very sorry to hear about the crack in the block (saw your post on WayOT). I'd just go forward with the spare engine and have the crack looked at for repair. I'd be surprised if it were in an area that couldn't be fixed. Of course, your parts would be worth more in pieces.

    Couple thoughts: the flywheel shouldn't give you any issues with fast RPM drop. As you know, the B5 guys have been running LWFWs for a decade now without issue. The engine management is a bit more sophisticated than the '91 911 system.

    If you eliminate the secondary air injection pump, I'd buy yours. Mine is making quite a bit of bearing noise.

    General comment: this forum is spoiled! Lifts are a rare commodity. Though Steve is indeed "the man" for doing this job on jackstands, it's not a rare thing in the true DIY community. Having a lift is the rare thing. I've pulled countless S4 engines on jackstands both with subframe drop methods and lift out. I pulled and rebuilt my Esprit engine all on jackstands in a cramped space. It can be done.
    2003 RS 6
    2001.5 S4
    1990 200
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    2002 F4i Racecar

    Smileys are to Car Forums like the Bubonic Plague was to Europe...

  17. #35
    Registered User JSRS6's Avatar
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    Rare, maybe. Expensive, no. If anybody in Florida needs to use a lift after say, April 2013, I will have at least one in a garage behind my house. Gotta wait till we move back down there after I get back from overseas.
    Avus RS 6, RNS-E/BT/RVC, Eurocharged/MTM, SuperSports, PSS9/Hotchkis, SS Lines/EBC Reds, FMU/BMC, Sportec vents, 007's, 9500ci, Black Optics/Headlights/Trim/Rims, CC; coming soon: stage 3 snow meth

  18. #36
    Registered User JSRS6's Avatar
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    And I will be building my beast down there.
    Avus RS 6, RNS-E/BT/RVC, Eurocharged/MTM, SuperSports, PSS9/Hotchkis, SS Lines/EBC Reds, FMU/BMC, Sportec vents, 007's, 9500ci, Black Optics/Headlights/Trim/Rims, CC; coming soon: stage 3 snow meth

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