KW V3 or PSS9

[hahnmgh63]

ttboost, the weight savings going to KWV3's is only about 18lbs (including Central Valves), I weighed mine when I put them in and pulled all of the DRC junk out. Bilstein may be slightly lighter I'm not sure as KW's are pretty stout struts/Shocks and the rears have the added Resevoirs which are probably good for at least a pound a piece.

[RS6Steve]

I also took my DRC system out 2 weeks ago and installed Bilstein PSS9's. I am very pleased with the system. The softness feels exactly the same to the DRC system I had before it started to leak. Currently I have it on the softess setting 9. When I will change over to my summer wheels, I will set it harder to 6-7. I first had the car to low and the next weekend I lifted it to 10mm under the original height. At this height the Bilsteins are almost at their maximum height with the spacer spring still attached. I have also uploaded some photo's in my profile.

Try setting them to 4, I found that to be the best. Especially on European roads!

[Aronis]

Has anyone did this them self??

My DRC has died again...really fun winter driving with this loosy goosy system.

Mike

[hahnmgh63]

Aronis, you mean the aftermarket Coilover install? I think there is at least a half dozen of us that have done it. I have the convenience of a 4 post lift in my shop which makes it much easier but it can be done without one. The lift makes it much easier getting at the DRC lines if you want to remove them but the KW kit at least comes with plugs to plug off the DRC lines if you want to keep them. I chose to remove all of the lines & Central valves. I may even have the plugs from KW somewhere if someone on the list wants them. Although if your going to remove the DRC shocks why keep the lines & Central valves as at that point it would cost you a fortune to acquire new struts/shocks to reinstall.

[Aronis]

Yes, the plan would be to remove the entire system so as to avoid any rattling from loose tubing....etc....

I'd like to do this myself but you're very correct having a lift is much nicer. LOL...

I am looking into options within a reasonable drive to have it done.

I'm not set on any type, I have been told that the stock Audi parts from an S6 will work fine.

Mike

[JSRS6]

The install is quite easy, even without a lift. Me and a buddy pulled a late night bilstein party, and it went smoothly.

[Elevens]

Yea did mine also. Wasn't too bad. Took me a few nights after work. My upper links came out easily though. Can't say the same for everyone else. And if you can't free them it makes a relatively easy job a nightmare......................

[hahnmgh63]

I just sprayed a little penetration oil (Kroil is my favorite) on all of the bolts and the splits in the A-arms for two nights in a row and they came off easily. If you haven't done them in a while it is a good time to do the A-Arms, or at least the upper as they seem to be most prone to bushing failure. The A-Arms on the front are exactly the same as those from the 2002-on A6 & S6, the only reason for the different suffix on the part # is that the RS6 bushings are slightly stiffer, the arms themselves are exactly the same so once you remove the DRC the A6 or S6 shocks would fit no problem although I would imagine the front end of our cars being slightly heavier than a S6 and a fair amount heavier than a A6 as far as spring rates.

[Brav]

Well, I decided on KW. I guess at the end of the day, it was an RS6-specific unit, and I liked the fancy remote reservoirs, and a set was ready to go for me. I will post pics of the install, before/after in the next few days. I am doing all of the front control arms and bushings. The rear seems ok.. anything else I should be doing right not? Apikol diff mount?

[V8weight]

Do you have the H-Sport sway bars yet?

[MaxRS6]

Well, I decided on KW. I guess at the end of the day, it was an RS6-specific unit, and I liked the fancy remote reservoirs, and a set was ready to go for me. I will post pics of the install, before/after in the next few days. I am doing all of the front control arms and bushings. The rear seems ok.. anything else I should be doing right not? Apikol diff mount?

Welcome to the dark side! I look forward to seeing the pics and your impressions.

The Apikol diff mount was a win for me- especially after seeing the one they pulled off.

[Brav]

no sway bars, suspension is virgin.

[JSRS6]

We all highly recommend you get them...

[ben916]

Well, I decided on KW. I guess at the end of the day, it was an RS6-specific unit, and I liked the fancy remote reservoirs, and a set was ready to go for me. I will post pics of the install, before/after in the next few days. I am doing all of the front control arms and bushings. The rear seems ok.. anything else I should be doing right not? Apikol diff mount?

Raven?
Can you PM me your cost for the KWv3?
Also did you look up Headshots vehicle alteration for access to adjust the KW's via the engine bay versus removing everything????

[Brav]

I need a new clutch/trans in my Noble as it turns out.. so this may delay further upgrades on my RS6

I get most all my aftermarket parts/wheels/tires through Eric @ Supreme Power. Haven't seen the alteration for access for adjustment.. I imagine it requires the use of a grinder!

edit- just researched this mod, will definitely be grinding out some access holes.

[Aronis]

At the time I had my DRC last replaced I had them replace all wearable items such as the control arms, etc, so I am guessing those parts a probably ok.

So the DIY Coilover job. Some Questions:

1. Disconnecting the DRC - how does the check valve come apart and how do you determine the correct point to disconnect.
2. Did you have to compress or hold at a point of compression the strut and spring combination for safe removal - I assume that with the car up on a lift the strut and spring are fully unloaded.
3. If I dissconnect the front two DRC struts from the DRC tubing and do just the front two new coil overs could the car be driven if needed? That is can I do 1/2 half of the job and with the DRC disconnected at the check valve would the rear dampers still have what little pressure they have now still there? I assume yes if the check valves are doing their job.
4. I have documents on how-to-do and a specific bolts is labeled DO NOT LOOSEN as this will effect the alignment. Is having an alignment done right away needed to safely use the car if I do not mistakenly move that nut?
5. Any special tools needed?

Thanks

Mike

[hahnmgh63]

1. I just unbolted the lines going to the shocks/struts and all seeemed fine. Un-connected right and the Shock/Strut fittings.
2. For the rear Shocks you need to unhook the swaybar to drop the A-Arm low enough to get the Shock out. In the front, if not replacing the upper strut mount the spring isn't under great tension when extended so you can just undo the upper Strut shaft bolt and let the mount and spring pop loose. Pretty much same for the rear.
3. If you needed to move the car I don't see why you couldn't move the car around after just doing the front but I wouldn't plan on going too far.
4. I didn't get my car aligned for a full month afterward as I wanted to let my springs settle in before my alignment.
5. No special tools needed if you have a descent tool set. Some deep sockets, and Audi/VW upper strut socket (22mm w/cutout for allen wrench).
If you plan to pull all of the lines you will have to remove all of the wheel well liners unless you just cut the lines on each end from where you can reach them and pull them through. The Central valves are bolted to the leading edge (front) of the spare tire well (I plugged the holes with Silicone to keep the spare tire well dry).

[Aronis]

I was able to find an excellent PDF on the KW website showing some of the installation specific to the V3 variant.

I have the Bentley manual and just reviewed the sections on the struts ( I've looked this over quite a few times when I was considering a DIY the first time the DRC died).

I am confident I can do this myself after reviewing the information.

I was just not 100% on the check valves but after seeing the diagrams and pictures in the KW PDF I can see which side of the connection to remove LOL.

Thanks for the input.

I'll be ordering the KW's this week.

Mike