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Thread: C5 RS6 suspension

  1. #1
    Registered User ben916's Avatar
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    C5 RS6 suspension

    I am gathering information on what people are upgrading to for aftermarket suspension components.
    I am currently sitting (ass end too high) on DRC recalled version with 45k miles and I KNOW it will go out eventually.

    Aftermarket items considered in no particular order:
    KWv3, (def not the v2 or v1),
    PSS9, not sure about the PSS10,
    Hotchkis sways Front/Rear,
    Stern adjustable control arms,
    Stasis with Ohlin dampers (crazy $$$$),
    H&R Coilovers

    Please reply with what you have and how you like it/hate it/ride characteristics.
    Also if there is an upgrade path, such as sway bars first, then blah, please include that.
    03 RS6 Avus, Sportec Cooling, Frozen rotors, EBC Reds, Aces 4, Apikol, Phaetons, + pedals, AWM, Aluminum Paddles, KomfortBlinker, Hotchkis, RNS-E

  2. #2
    Registered User MaxRS6's Avatar
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    You prob. know my opinion- I think the sway bars are one of the best mods. They really help the car in the curves. I'm also a KW fan as they have held up well since I tossed the DRC. I have the KW's set pretty firm and the sway bars on their firm setting. It does jar a bit- but stays firmly planted. With my setup, it is too firm for some when their dentures fall out. However; for me and my needs it works great. I"ve not messed around with the adjustments. I've givens some thought to do the mod (cut an opening) to be able to adjust the settings without taking them off. The setup has performed very well at the track, and keeps the heavy pig very stable/level through the twisties. There is no comparison to the before/after DRC and I remain very happy to be rid of the oil demon.

    I have rolled 75K miles since putting this setup on. I installed the sway bars, the KW's, and had the entire front suspension (OEM lower/upper control arms, tie rods, etc.) etc approx 3 years ago. I'm now nearing 145K and have not had to replace any suspension parts. As you know- it is no garage queen and periodically hits the track. I've received numerous comments of how level the car remains at speed and through turns in consideration of its size.

    Less than .03 worth
    Last edited by MaxRS6; January 31st, 2011 at 13:50.
    175K miles rolled

  3. #3
    Registered User yokust's Avatar
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    I will have a set of PSS9's here soon hopefully for sale.

    have been waiting for 3 months now from KW to get me a replacement strut from the accident on other car

  4. #4
    Registered User micdee's Avatar
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    I've recently replaced the DRC with KW v3 and I left it untouched (so manufactor settings) and considered with the condition of the DRC (which I have never experienced in good condition) it is such an improvement.
    At this moment I do not have the swaybars done, but I think I will do that mod next year.

  5. #5
    Registered User speedtrapped's Avatar
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    Ebony/Black, DBR Stage 3 race kit, -SOLD :( 996TT Proto 650 basically a sardine can with a rocket attached to the back...11' CTS-V, 540/579RWP hehehehe ;)

  6. #6
    Registered User ben916's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by speedtrapped View Post
    I saw some on Ebay for $412 but it looked questionable...
    03 RS6 Avus, Sportec Cooling, Frozen rotors, EBC Reds, Aces 4, Apikol, Phaetons, + pedals, AWM, Aluminum Paddles, KomfortBlinker, Hotchkis, RNS-E

  7. #7
    Registered User speedtrapped's Avatar
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    hmmm, sub $500 mod that improves cornering is a must, case in point I have been trying some spirited driving lately, local roads and have been icey, and man the car rolls a little too much for my liking....
    Ebony/Black, DBR Stage 3 race kit, -SOLD :( 996TT Proto 650 basically a sardine can with a rocket attached to the back...11' CTS-V, 540/579RWP hehehehe ;)

  8. #8
    Registered User ben916's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by speedtrapped View Post
    hmmm, sub $500 mod that improves cornering is a must, case in point I have been trying some spirited driving lately, local roads and have been icey, and man the car rolls a little too much for my liking....
    Sorry to all that think I am trolling (I am not), but I remember Greg saying that the fronts on the KWv3 were set +1 harder than factory and the rear was set at factory.

    There is a write up from Headshot about altering/cutting a hole in the area near the shock mount(front only) so as you could adjust the KW's with a spanner wrench versus taking the entire front suspension apart to adjust the settings.
    03 RS6 Avus, Sportec Cooling, Frozen rotors, EBC Reds, Aces 4, Apikol, Phaetons, + pedals, AWM, Aluminum Paddles, KomfortBlinker, Hotchkis, RNS-E

  9. #9
    Registered User speedtrapped's Avatar
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    Ben, ty I did see that, and front feels softer me, but then again, Greg had the 20'bbs, which I have removed for winter and I am running oem's w/ winters..
    Ebony/Black, DBR Stage 3 race kit, -SOLD :( 996TT Proto 650 basically a sardine can with a rocket attached to the back...11' CTS-V, 540/579RWP hehehehe ;)

  10. #10
    Registered User V8weight's Avatar
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    Greg had his KW's set to the factory recommended settings. I found it absolutely necessary to increase the rebound by one click, otherwise it seemed to wallow in the curves.
    Pat - Eisenmann race exhaust, Catless downpipes, KW V3's, H-Sport sways, 034 Control arms, Apikol diff mount, Sterns motor mounts, Forge dv's, Stainless brake lines, Venair hoses, Sportec vent mod, Euro tails, Viper Tuned ecu/tcu, DPE S20's 19x9.5, 275/30/19's

  11. #11
    Registered User JRS-RS6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ben916 View Post
    I saw some on Ebay for $412 but it looked questionable...
    $412 at Tire Rack: http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/s...827&perfCode=P
    2003 RS6 Avus Silver

  12. #12
    Registered User speedtrapped's Avatar
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    Ty Josh, u rock!
    Ebony/Black, DBR Stage 3 race kit, -SOLD :( 996TT Proto 650 basically a sardine can with a rocket attached to the back...11' CTS-V, 540/579RWP hehehehe ;)

  13. #13
    Registered User ben916's Avatar
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    I stopped by PureMS today (no, I am not getting paid or am I affiliated with them) to test for misfires - nada!
    I happened to ask about Hotchkis sways - $425...
    03 RS6 Avus, Sportec Cooling, Frozen rotors, EBC Reds, Aces 4, Apikol, Phaetons, + pedals, AWM, Aluminum Paddles, KomfortBlinker, Hotchkis, RNS-E

  14. #14
    Registered User speedtrapped's Avatar
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    Just ordered off tire rack!, imassume pretty easy swap
    Ebony/Black, DBR Stage 3 race kit, -SOLD :( 996TT Proto 650 basically a sardine can with a rocket attached to the back...11' CTS-V, 540/579RWP hehehehe ;)

  15. #15
    Registered User MaxRS6's Avatar
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    IIRC- the tech stated the rear was more effort than the relatively easy front bar. You wil have to decide which of the two settings (regular, firm) you want to give a shot. I have mine on the firm setting.
    175K miles rolled

  16. #16
    Registered User V8weight's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ben916 View Post
    I stopped by PureMS today (no, I am not getting paid or am I affiliated with them) to test for misfires - nada!
    I happened to ask about Hotchkis sways - $425...
    I bought mine at PureMS, they were on sale for $379.00 at the time. They were great to deal with, I wish they carried more products for our car. I'll be picking up the Sterns engine and trans mounts from them soon.....

    Quote Originally Posted by MaxRS6 View Post
    IIRC- the tech stated the rear was more effort than the relatively easy front bar. You wil have to decide which of the two settings (regular, firm) you want to give a shot. I have mine on the firm setting.
    Yeah, you have to drop the exhaust to install the rear bar, but still only about an hour to install both bars. Ad a few beers, and you could make an afternoon out of it.
    Pat - Eisenmann race exhaust, Catless downpipes, KW V3's, H-Sport sways, 034 Control arms, Apikol diff mount, Sterns motor mounts, Forge dv's, Stainless brake lines, Venair hoses, Sportec vent mod, Euro tails, Viper Tuned ecu/tcu, DPE S20's 19x9.5, 275/30/19's

  17. #17
    Registered User speedtrapped's Avatar
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    Damn that spells lift....., I may be passing buck on install
    Ebony/Black, DBR Stage 3 race kit, -SOLD :( 996TT Proto 650 basically a sardine can with a rocket attached to the back...11' CTS-V, 540/579RWP hehehehe ;)

  18. #18
    Registered User V8weight's Avatar
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    Oh, sorry Ben, I guess I could actually address your original question while I'm here. I would say add the H-Sport bars first, this is a great upgrade, even with the stock DRC. Second is coil overs. Like Randy, I've had great luck with my KW's, and wouldn't hesitate to recommend them to anyone. However, If I would have had to pay for them out of my own pocket, I may have looked harder into the H&R coil over route. They're about half the cost, and have rave reviews from the guys across the pond. Unfortunately, they're almost impossible to get here. The Sterns control arms fall into the never category on your list. They serve no purpose for our cars. You can run up to -2.0 degrees of negative camber without any adverse effects on tire wear, as long as you stick to decent toe settings. I run -1.8 degrees of negative camber with my car lowered, and my tires wear perfectly.
    Pat - Eisenmann race exhaust, Catless downpipes, KW V3's, H-Sport sways, 034 Control arms, Apikol diff mount, Sterns motor mounts, Forge dv's, Stainless brake lines, Venair hoses, Sportec vent mod, Euro tails, Viper Tuned ecu/tcu, DPE S20's 19x9.5, 275/30/19's

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