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Thread: Throttle body malfunction

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    Registered User vodeftones's Avatar
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    Throttle body malfunction

    Anyone else get a throttle body malfunction fault in the bitter cold up here that we just had, car doesn't move, bring the car inside the shop for 15 minutes it clears up by itself? I'd rather not buy a new throttle body at around 700-800 just for the part

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    Registered User V8weight's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vodeftones View Post
    Anyone else get a throttle body malfunction fault in the bitter cold up here that we just had, car doesn't move, bring the car inside the shop for 15 minutes it clears up by itself? I'd rather not buy a new throttle body at around 700-800 just for the part
    We've been seeing a lot of this at the shop lately. Excessive moisture in the crankcase ventilation system finds it's way to the back of the throttle body and freezes. You'll have to remove the throttle body assembly and clean it, and it wouldn't hurt to clean out your PCV system lines and hoses. Reinstall and re-adapt the throttle body and you should be fine.
    Pat - Eisenmann race exhaust, Catless downpipes, KW V3's, H-Sport sways, 034 Control arms, Apikol diff mount, Sterns motor mounts, Forge dv's, Stainless brake lines, Venair hoses, Sportec vent mod, Euro tails, Viper Tuned ecu/tcu, DPE S20's 19x9.5, 275/30/19's

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    Registered User V8weight's Avatar
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    It's too bad it's such a sow to get the throttle body off.........
    Pat - Eisenmann race exhaust, Catless downpipes, KW V3's, H-Sport sways, 034 Control arms, Apikol diff mount, Sterns motor mounts, Forge dv's, Stainless brake lines, Venair hoses, Sportec vent mod, Euro tails, Viper Tuned ecu/tcu, DPE S20's 19x9.5, 275/30/19's

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    Registered User speedtrapped's Avatar
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    Curious pat, but let's say I park the car, and go to work, 10 hours later it's bitter cold out(garaged at house). If the tb freezes, couldn't I just let it idle for an amount of time that the moisture liquifieys? Just wondering in case one of us gets stuck with that.
    Ebony/Black, DBR Stage 3 race kit, -SOLD :( 996TT Proto 650 basically a sardine can with a rocket attached to the back...11' CTS-V, 540/579RWP hehehehe ;)

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    Registered User V8weight's Avatar
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    Yes and no, it may take quite a while to warm it up enough to free up the throttle body. It's controlled by actuators, and they're not very strong. It only takes the slightest resistance to trigger a fault code, or stop them from opening the valve. Plus, the more you run the car at idle in the cold weather, the more condensation it makes, and pumps into the intake manifold.
    Pat - Eisenmann race exhaust, Catless downpipes, KW V3's, H-Sport sways, 034 Control arms, Apikol diff mount, Sterns motor mounts, Forge dv's, Stainless brake lines, Venair hoses, Sportec vent mod, Euro tails, Viper Tuned ecu/tcu, DPE S20's 19x9.5, 275/30/19's

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    Happens to me at least once a year (winter)...start the car and it goes into "limp mode", never idiling above 800 RPM. Had if flat-bedded to the dealer twice and they looked for codes... nothiing comes up. They did say the throttle body was frozen and offered no advice on how to avoid this.
    Now when it happens I just let the car idle for about 10-15 minutes to warm up, shut it down and it restarts fine. Sure beats the 3 hour flat-deck ride for "service." All I have to do is just clean it? Jeez, gotta talk to the dealer.

  7. #7
    Registered User V8weight's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Audi 2Go View Post
    Happens to me at least once a year (winter)...start the car and it goes into "limp mode", never idiling above 800 RPM. Had if flat-bedded to the dealer twice and they looked for codes... nothiing comes up. They did say the throttle body was frozen and offered no advice on how to avoid this.
    Now when it happens I just let the car idle for about 10-15 minutes to warm up, shut it down and it restarts fine. Sure beats the 3 hour flat-deck ride for "service." All I have to do is just clean it? Jeez, gotta talk to the dealer.
    Yes, just clean it. However, in order to remove the throttle body, you have to remove the front bumper, put the lock support into service mode, remove the front charge pipe, then finally pull the throttle body. The cooling system has to be topped up and bled as well.
    Pat - Eisenmann race exhaust, Catless downpipes, KW V3's, H-Sport sways, 034 Control arms, Apikol diff mount, Sterns motor mounts, Forge dv's, Stainless brake lines, Venair hoses, Sportec vent mod, Euro tails, Viper Tuned ecu/tcu, DPE S20's 19x9.5, 275/30/19's

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    Registered User JSRS6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Audi 2Go View Post
    Happens to me at least once a year (winter)...start the car and it goes into "limp mode", never idiling above 800 RPM. Had if flat-bedded to the dealer twice and they looked for codes... nothiing comes up. They did say the throttle body was frozen and offered no advice on how to avoid this.
    Now when it happens I just let the car idle for about 10-15 minutes to warm up, shut it down and it restarts fine. Sure beats the 3 hour flat-deck ride for "service." All I have to do is just clean it? Jeez, gotta talk to the dealer.
    Hello Mr. Under the radar first post. Welcome to the forum. Would you mind updating your location so "peeps"(that was for you Ben) know where you are from. It does help. And be sure and introduce yourself here:

    http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php?p=...=66#post205640
    Avus RS 6, RNS-E/BT/RVC, Eurocharged/MTM, SuperSports, PSS9/Hotchkis, SS Lines/EBC Reds, FMU/BMC, Sportec vents, 007's, 9500ci, Black Optics/Headlights/Trim/Rims, CC; coming soon: stage 3 snow meth

  9. #9
    Registered User vodeftones's Avatar
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    mine is just like audi2go, fire up stone cold, epc and check engine on, let car warm for 10-15 minutes, restart car, light is off and have throttle again

  10. #10
    Registered User V8weight's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vodeftones View Post
    mine is just like audi2go, fire up stone cold, epc and check engine on, let car warm for 10-15 minutes, restart car, light is off and have throttle again
    Sounds right. I'd either take it off and clean it, and the pcv system, or just find time to take it out on a long drive and "burn the condensation out of it".
    Pat - Eisenmann race exhaust, Catless downpipes, KW V3's, H-Sport sways, 034 Control arms, Apikol diff mount, Sterns motor mounts, Forge dv's, Stainless brake lines, Venair hoses, Sportec vent mod, Euro tails, Viper Tuned ecu/tcu, DPE S20's 19x9.5, 275/30/19's

  11. #11
    Registered User ben916's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by V8weight View Post
    I'd either take .. off and take it out on a long drive ...
    to the Southwest corner of the United States.
    Currently @ mid 60's and cloudless...
    Perfect amount of time to fill 'er up with some Aces, hit the I-90 West (yeah it is the long way) to Seattle, grab some salmon and visit Starbucks, Microsoft, Amazon, etc and then turn left and go south on the I-5 (if you want to visit Hanford, alter course some). Make stops in San Fran, LA, San Diego but do not go south of the border (unless you are a gambling man).
    Unsure of the return route but it could be I-15 via VEGAS...
    SOLD - 03 RS6 Avus (905355)
    Current - 03 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 double cab - the YETI, lifted, winched, snorkeled, lockered, skidded, geared

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