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Thread: FMU Intake, group Buy

  1. #1
    Registered User speedtrapped's Avatar
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    FMU Intake, group Buy

    I am not sure if Erik would allow this, But I have been speaking to Andrew @FMU about the air intake system they custom fab. He offerred a group buy price of $1100.00 if we can get 5 buyers together. if not a one on one purchase is $1400-1500.00. Kits includes:
    -Tubing
    -Mass Airflow (MAF) housings
    -Mounts
    -BMC Carbon Fiber cans (filters are inside the cans)
    Our intake is designed to fit up to the stock airfoils.
    I for one would def buy it, any other takers? Palette?
    Ebony/Black, DBR Stage 3 race kit, -SOLD :( 996TT Proto 650 basically a sardine can with a rocket attached to the back...11' CTS-V, 540/579RWP hehehehe ;)

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    Registered User V8weight's Avatar
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    Does this system eliminate the lower MAF sensor seals and press fit design with hoses and clamps? This would eliminate a major un-metered air leak on our cars. If so, intriguing, if not, pass.
    Pat - Eisenmann race exhaust, Catless downpipes, KW V3's, H-Sport sways, 034 Control arms, Apikol diff mount, Sterns motor mounts, Forge dv's, Stainless brake lines, Venair hoses, Sportec vent mod, Euro tails, Viper Tuned ecu/tcu, DPE S20's 19x9.5, 275/30/19's

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    Registered User PALETTE's Avatar
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    yup I'm in if you can tell me or post some more info, Images, as well as data-dyno sheet
    2004 Black/Black,EPL Tune *** 0-60 in 3.5 seconds SOLD :( - - 2002 TT Porsche 724WHP 10.43@139mph/ Motor build in progress. looking for 9's

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    Registered User speedtrapped's Avatar
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    hmmm, Pat Andrew said he would reply to this thread, add to post and pics as well. His email is
    andrew@fluidmotorunion.com
    Ebony/Black, DBR Stage 3 race kit, -SOLD :( 996TT Proto 650 basically a sardine can with a rocket attached to the back...11' CTS-V, 540/579RWP hehehehe ;)

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    Registered User speedtrapped's Avatar
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    Pat, Andrew handles blogs, and photo's, he just wrote me that he is getting technical data, as well as fitment, and better pics w/in 1/2 hour or so.
    Ebony/Black, DBR Stage 3 race kit, -SOLD :( 996TT Proto 650 basically a sardine can with a rocket attached to the back...11' CTS-V, 540/579RWP hehehehe ;)

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    Registered User speedtrapped's Avatar
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    Pat, wouldnt a big unmetered air leak screw the idle up badly? Or do u mean that an eventuality removing and replacing overtime, age etc...
    Ebony/Black, DBR Stage 3 race kit, -SOLD :( 996TT Proto 650 basically a sardine can with a rocket attached to the back...11' CTS-V, 540/579RWP hehehehe ;)

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    Quote Originally Posted by V8weight View Post
    Does this system eliminate the lower MAF sensor seals and press fit design with hoses and clamps? This would eliminate a major un-metered air leak on our cars. If so, intriguing, if not, pass.
    The system does not utilize a hose and clamp design; instead, we retain the stock design of a direct press fit. In terms of air leaks, we definitely noticed this when disassembling the stock intake setup, and we made sure that our press fit design was a much better seal than stock. With intakes, we always take into account the problems of the stock box and try our best to reduce or remove those issues.

    Quote Originally Posted by PALETTE View Post
    yup I'm in if you can tell me or post some more info, Images, as well as data-dyno sheet
    We didn't run a dyno for the intake on our project RS6, mostly because the airbox was built in conjunction with other parts, and our fabrication side wasn't quite ready for mass production of parts yet, so we didn't really think of things like step-by-step dyno charts and graphs. From the information gathered during the build, though, the stock airbox becomes a very restrictive part of the system around 550 crank horsepower or so. Our custom-fabricated intake was designed with these higher-horsepower builds in mind, so there's a definite increase in airflow over stock, and the increased airflow will obviously produce gains, we just don't have an exact number down to the decimal.

    If one person with access to a dyno would like to become a test mule of sorts, we'd be willing to sell him or her one intake setup at group buy cost minus 50-100 dollars, in order to install it and post their charts/graphs to the forum, to ease the mind of those perched on the purchasing fence. We're not here to sell you a product that we ourselves wouldn't stand behind; we believe in only the best, and we want everybody to be as happy with their purchases as we are.

    We would love to do the dyno today ourselves, but this RS6 is so far into the build (and we're still working on the oil and trans coolers) that we can't return everything to stock and run the dyno to get numbers. And sadly, Chicago doesn't have several dozen stock RS6s lying around for this purpose, either.

    I'm grabbing fresh pictures off the camera right now, and I'll post them up in just a minute.

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    Registered User yokust's Avatar
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    Well my first question is what did the MAF readings change to from adding a larger ID pipe to the equation.

    The stock MAF is only about 2.75" ID, so when increasing the pipe ID to almost a full 3" like seen in pictures you are going to drop the MAF g/s readings.

    Which dropping the MAF readings is most likely needed when adding bigger turbos to cars, to prevent the MAF from getting above 4.6v on the signal.

    But when keeping stock turbos, this will effect drivability and tuning

    But otherwise, I like the design and use of the enclosed filters

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    After some more conferring with one of our engineers who oversaw the R&D for the RS6 intake, they did a lot of thinking and devising when it came to figuring out if or how to utilize a hose clamp design. According to him, the way that the tube fits into the turbo, there's almost no good way to fit a clamp on it. We'd have to awkwardly fit a custom coupler in there as well to make a clamp actually feasible.

    Going off what speedtrapped said about the air leak causing problems, any air leak would trigger a fault with the mass air flow sensor, even with the stock design. Our design doesn't throw any faults, so the air leak issue doesn't seem to be an issue at all, even without using a clamp design.

    Here's some more pictures from the top of the engine bay, taken just a little while ago. Sorry about the size, but I don't want them too small so things get obscured. You can see the MAF housing, the tubing, the cans and the mounts:




  10. #10
    Registered User PALETTE's Avatar
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    looks great guys!

    I would be willing to hammer a deal out to get this done
    2004 Black/Black,EPL Tune *** 0-60 in 3.5 seconds SOLD :( - - 2002 TT Porsche 724WHP 10.43@139mph/ Motor build in progress. looking for 9's

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    Quote Originally Posted by yokust View Post
    Well my first question is what did the MAF readings change to from adding a larger ID pipe to the equation.

    The stock MAF is only about 2.75" ID, so when increasing the pipe ID to almost a full 3" like seen in pictures you are going to drop the MAF g/s readings.

    Which dropping the MAF readings is most likely needed when adding bigger turbos to cars, to prevent the MAF from getting above 4.6v on the signal.

    But when keeping stock turbos, this will effect drivability and tuning

    But otherwise, I like the design and use of the enclosed filters
    The ID of the MAF section remains stock. The tubing in the other sections is of a larger diameter, but the section in which the MAF is contained remains at ~2.75", like you said. This way, the MAF doesn't freak out, and you can slap this intake on without requiring an additional tune. Airflow is still increased, but the readings won't start getting screwy.

  12. #12
    Registered User speedtrapped's Avatar
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    I'm in on group buy, 3 more to go
    Ebony/Black, DBR Stage 3 race kit, -SOLD :( 996TT Proto 650 basically a sardine can with a rocket attached to the back...11' CTS-V, 540/579RWP hehehehe ;)

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    Registered User yokust's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fluidmotorunion View Post
    The ID of the MAF section remains stock. The tubing in the other sections is of a larger diameter, but the section in which the MAF is contained remains at ~2.75", like you said. This way, the MAF doesn't freak out, and you can slap this intake on without requiring an additional tune. Airflow is still increased, but the readings won't start getting screwy.
    Do you have a picture of how you step up the intake at the original MAF housings, since its a 2.7" ID at the MAF?

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    Quote Originally Posted by yokust View Post
    Do you have a picture of how you step up the intake at the original MAF housings, since its a 2.7" ID at the MAF?
    The pipe remains at 2.75" from the MAF all the way to the manifold that connects to the turbo. Since the ID of the piping continues to decrease all the way to the turbo, to step it back up would be basically pointless. Even though the ID of our piping is exactly similar to OEM, and utilizes the OEM manifolds, if we were to try to connect these specific airboxes to the OEM MAF piping, we'd hit the hood and run into fitment issues like crazy. So as a result, to get the airflow to the levels we wanted with the airboxes we deemed best for the given application, we had to fab up our own piping of the same ID.

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    Looks nice. The pics help a great deal.

    I like the idea of keeping the tubing size the same at the MAFs. This is a must.

  16. #16
    Registered User speedtrapped's Avatar
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    I imagine it must help w/ heat soak a little no?.....Does this mean ur a buyer dave?
    Ebony/Black, DBR Stage 3 race kit, -SOLD :( 996TT Proto 650 basically a sardine can with a rocket attached to the back...11' CTS-V, 540/579RWP hehehehe ;)

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    Registered User yokust's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fluidmotorunion View Post
    The pipe remains at 2.75" from the MAF all the way to the manifold that connects to the turbo. Since the ID of the piping continues to decrease all the way to the turbo, to step it back up would be basically pointless. Even though the ID of our piping is exactly similar to OEM, and utilizes the OEM manifolds, if we were to try to connect these specific airboxes to the OEM MAF piping, we'd hit the hood and run into fitment issues like crazy. So as a result, to get the airflow to the levels we wanted with the airboxes we deemed best for the given application, we had to fab up our own piping of the same ID.
    Not sure if you got what I meant.

    I understand that the piping is 2.75" all the way, which is good.

    But the OD of that oem MAF is 3.25", So how do you step the pipe back up to that to get a good seal on the oring in the stock MAF manifold/housing whatever you want to call it

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    Quote Originally Posted by yokust View Post
    Not sure if you got what I meant.

    I understand that the piping is 2.75" all the way, which is good.

    But the OD of that oem MAF is 3.25", So how do you step the pipe back up to that to get a good seal on the oring in the stock MAF manifold/housing whatever you want to call it
    Sorry about the confusion.

    We use an aluminum sleeve that tapers from the 3.25" to the 2.75".

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