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Thread: All my new toys

  1. #1
    Registered User yokust's Avatar
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    All my new toys

    So last week had a little fun with some new toys and prettied up the engine bay

    Installed:

    Bosch Motorsport '044' Pump
    Bosch Motorsport 5bar Regulator
    Phenolic Intake Manifold Spacers (Custom Built by EvoTuning)
    Snow Performance Water/Meth Kit w/Dual Noazzle Upgrade

    So started with this:
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    Did some playing with powder coating and got this:


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  2. #2
    Registered User V8weight's Avatar
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    Looks great, you've been busy! How did the intake spacers work out? Don't they mess up the front charge pipe mounting locations?
    Pat - Eisenmann race exhaust, Catless downpipes, KW V3's, H-Sport sways, 034 Control arms, Apikol diff mount, Sterns motor mounts, Forge dv's, Stainless brake lines, Venair hoses, Sportec vent mod, Euro tails, Viper Tuned ecu/tcu, DPE S20's 19x9.5, 275/30/19's

  3. #3
    Registered User yokust's Avatar
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    I have run these spacers on both my cars, have to cut off outer mounts on the front bi-pipe, but no different than running them on a 2.7t with apr pipe or rs4 setup. never had any problems for the 10k miles I had them on my previous car.

    They work great, keep intake manifold at a much steadier temps, longer time of intake temps getting high, and cools down alot faster.

    And BTW I do have 6 more sets available. I had to have 10 sets made on custom order
    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #4
    Registered User V8weight's Avatar
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    Hmm, I may have to look you up next time I have my lock support off. I saw that you had these listed on Audizine a while back, but was worried about the mounting issues with the charge pipe. I'm still weary of the pipe being fastened with only 2 bolts, but reducing the IAT's does sound attractive.
    Pat - Eisenmann race exhaust, Catless downpipes, KW V3's, H-Sport sways, 034 Control arms, Apikol diff mount, Sterns motor mounts, Forge dv's, Stainless brake lines, Venair hoses, Sportec vent mod, Euro tails, Viper Tuned ecu/tcu, DPE S20's 19x9.5, 275/30/19's

  5. #5
    Registered User yokust's Avatar
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    The Bi-pipe is a pretty beefy item, and plus these cars do not run very much boost compared to big turbo 2.7's that I have built that run only having 2-3 bolts depending on which bi-pipe that is on there.

    But to tell you honestly, I have never had these on there with stock intake, so have to remember its going to go up 1/4" as well

  6. #6
    Registered User MaxRS6's Avatar
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    Nice toys and thanks for sharing your handiwork.
    210K miles rolled

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    VERY nice.
    I suppose you are running an aftermarket or custom tune?

    Please consider posting a write up for the Snow install.

  8. #8
    Registered User yokust's Avatar
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    I have APR ECU/TCU on this car

    And Snow install is pretty basic, nothing honestly different than what the instructions show other than where I put the pump/solenoid.

    And BTW the pump brackets and solenoid brackets are made by Apikol

  9. #9
    Registered User V8weight's Avatar
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    Do you happen to know the thread size for the nozzles? I'm thinking about drilling and tapping my charge pipe the next time I have it off, and plugging the holes, in case I decide to add meth injection down the road.
    Pat - Eisenmann race exhaust, Catless downpipes, KW V3's, H-Sport sways, 034 Control arms, Apikol diff mount, Sterns motor mounts, Forge dv's, Stainless brake lines, Venair hoses, Sportec vent mod, Euro tails, Viper Tuned ecu/tcu, DPE S20's 19x9.5, 275/30/19's

  10. #10
    Registered User yokust's Avatar
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    Every kit that I have used uses 1/8"npt nozzles

  11. #11
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    So the APR tune seems to fully utilize the additional performance provided by the Bosch 0044 fuel pump & 5 bar regulator?
    Were you able to adjust the tune for these parts?

  12. #12
    Registered User yokust's Avatar
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    The '044' pump was put on due to my pump was having issues. On both my cars the connection of the fuel pump the ground side terminal was burned, and caused from the power side terminal had come unsoldered under the plastic and causing high resistance. I am sure this is actually the cause of all the fuel pump failures people have had on these cars.

    I was chasing a wierd issue when car was very hot during track events the car would randomly overboost or sputter. And from measuring resistance across the pump terminals, the fuel pump was basicly only receiving about 11-12 volts while the car was producing 14 volts at the connector due to melted terminals.

    So basicly the car was running lean while under full boost, causing the ecu to cut boost to match fueling and causing the car to "freak the F__K out"

    Putting a larger pump on will not effect anything but a better flow of fuel and constant pressure.

    The reason for putting the 5bar regulator was also for fueling. While trying to hunt down weird issue was noticing during track events while logging that duty cycle on injectors was pretty high. So by adding more fuel pressure the motronic ecu will adapt and begin lowering the duty cycle to match the added fuel it sees out of the tailpipe. So bringing the injectors back into a more happy duty cycle with more available when starts to get hot and needs extra fuel to prevent knock.

    Also the motorsport 5bar regulator has a larger return outlet of the regulator, allowing the pump to have less stress and allow the fuel to circulate more. Which in our cars with as much heat issues as we have, keeping fuel temps down also which helps with fuel preignition

  13. #13
    Registered User JRS-RS6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yokust View Post
    The '044' pump was put on due to my pump was having issues. On both my cars the connection of the fuel pump the ground side terminal was burned, and caused from the power side terminal had come unsoldered under the plastic and causing high resistance. I am sure this is actually the cause of all the fuel pump failures people have had on these cars.

    I was chasing a wierd issue when car was very hot during track events the car would randomly overboost or sputter. And from measuring resistance across the pump terminals, the fuel pump was basicly only receiving about 11-12 volts while the car was producing 14 volts at the connector due to melted terminals.

    So basicly the car was running lean while under full boost, causing the ecu to cut boost to match fueling and causing the car to "freak the F__K out"

    Putting a larger pump on will not effect anything but a better flow of fuel and constant pressure.

    The reason for putting the 5bar regulator was also for fueling. While trying to hunt down weird issue was noticing during track events while logging that duty cycle on injectors was pretty high. So by adding more fuel pressure the motronic ecu will adapt and begin lowering the duty cycle to match the added fuel it sees out of the tailpipe. So bringing the injectors back into a more happy duty cycle with more available when starts to get hot and needs extra fuel to prevent knock.

    Also the motorsport 5bar regulator has a larger return outlet of the regulator, allowing the pump to have less stress and allow the fuel to circulate more. Which in our cars with as much heat issues as we have, keeping fuel temps down also which helps with fuel preignition
    Very interesting. Thanks for sharing this. Caused over boosting that might could lead to limp mode. Hmmm................ I hope a couple people have DVMs and know how to use them.
    2003 RS6 Avus Silver

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    Very clean Meth install. When I install mine, it's going in the same location. Thx!

    Did you buy the Snow Performance meth kit from Apikol? Did it come with the mounting brackets or did you have to buy the brackets separately?

  15. #15
    Registered User yokust's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JRS-RS6 View Post
    Very interesting. Thanks for sharing this. Caused over boosting that might could lead to limp mode. Hmmm................ I hope a couple people have DVMs and know how to use them.
    Well other than just looking inside the connector of the pump and looking for the burned ground side is all you can do. Once I found it, since the pump was crap anyways, I cut the palstic top off to investigate and find everything.

    I will try to take some pictures for reference if anyone wants some

  16. #16
    Registered User yokust's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by arS6 View Post
    Did you buy the Snow Performance meth kit from Apikol? Did it come with the mounting brackets or did you have to buy the brackets separately?
    The brackets are separate items that Apikol makes for installing Snow Performance parts, since the kits are very generic and you would have to make all your own brackets.

  17. #17
    Registered User V8weight's Avatar
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    What would be considered a high injector duty cycle? I seem to remember that our cars only run about 75% stock. I've never looged this, I'll have to make a few runs tonight.
    Pat - Eisenmann race exhaust, Catless downpipes, KW V3's, H-Sport sways, 034 Control arms, Apikol diff mount, Sterns motor mounts, Forge dv's, Stainless brake lines, Venair hoses, Sportec vent mod, Euro tails, Viper Tuned ecu/tcu, DPE S20's 19x9.5, 275/30/19's

  18. #18
    Registered User yokust's Avatar
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    Injectors happy point is 75-85%

    This is the rule when building large turbo setups.

    I saw acouple times of up around 89-90%, which means injectors are near maxed out and can over heat from been held open too long without closed time to cool back down.

    The high impedance(saturated) injectors that all VAG cars are not as capable of being run at high duty cycles like the low impedance(peak and hold) injectors. Thats why when running standalone injection (034, motech, etc) almost always rec running low imp injectors

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