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Thread: Engine Oil Recommendations

  1. #19
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    I agree with you, switch to the 5W-40, 5W-30 is too thin, especially when hot.
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
    2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
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  2. #20
    Registered User kilian tuning's Avatar
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    yes i thought so, my bonnet is almost untouchable after a spirit ride... is that normal or oil type related? my engine temp never exceed 90 degrees celsius...dont know if the dial is accurate...
    Last edited by kilian tuning; June 3rd, 2011 at 15:33.
    Mugello Blue C5 RS6 Avant Viper Tuning ECU/TCU
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  3. #21
    Registered User Brav's Avatar
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    These engines run quite hot. I would say thats normal. Even in normal driving with temps around 68F, if I turn the AC off, the engine still cooks the air up at least 10-15 degrees with normal driving (which I find quite annoying....) you would think that you would at least get ambient temps from the vent air!
    03 RS6 | Daytona Gray on black | KW V3 | Rotiform 19x10 Wheels | REVO ECU | MTM TCU | 170k miles and counting..
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  4. #22
    Registered User vodeftones's Avatar
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    Can I hear a thumbs up for Amsoil European Car Formula 5W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil
    http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/afl.aspx

  5. #23
    Registered User 4everRS's Avatar
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    Its 50501, so I say sure. You could put worse in it.
    Quote Originally Posted by vodeftones View Post
    Can I hear a thumbs up for Amsoil European Car Formula 5W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil
    http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/afl.aspx
    Avus Silver RS6 - Viper Stage 2 ECU/TCU - Water/Meth Injection - Frozen Rotors - Hbars - clear corners - Hella smoked tails - gutted precats

  6. #24
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    The Amsoil has a slightly higher HTHS (High Temp High Shear) raiting (3.8) than the best Mobil One (3.6, not really that good), but doesn't come close to Redline 10W-40 (4.6). I think the VW/Audi minimum is 3.5 HTHS, but that is the minimum. Just because Porsche, Corvette, & Cadillac use & recommend a couple of weights of Mobil One doesn't mean it's a great oil. It meets their minimum specs, just barely and I'm sure that an engine under normal conditions will meet their 4 yr 50K warranties, and you would be hard pressed after that to prove against those big companies that their oil recommendaton caused your engine to wear prematurely after the warranty had already expired. So off of my soapbox for now, why meet the minimum when you can surely exceed it by a large margin. But I would use the Amsoil over the Mobil, but definitely not before the Redline and they are about the same price.
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
    2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
    Roy, WA

  7. #25
    Registered User 4everRS's Avatar
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    What he said is better ^^
    Avus Silver RS6 - Viper Stage 2 ECU/TCU - Water/Meth Injection - Frozen Rotors - Hbars - clear corners - Hella smoked tails - gutted precats

  8. #26
    Registered User kilian tuning's Avatar
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    What about Castrol Edge 5w40?
    But what is considered to be the best oil for our engines? 50501 5w40 but which brand, or doesnt the castrol, mobil, esso, etc brands differ that much....?
    Mugello Blue C5 RS6 Avant Viper Tuning ECU/TCU
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  9. #27
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    You can find the oil specifications for most oil on the manufacturers website. If it is 505.1 then it is recommended by VW/Audi but within those 505.1 oils some are very close and some are better. The HTHS is one of the main specifications to determine VAG oil and a few other European manufacturers guidlines. In Europe you have a choice of many very good oils. In N. America here we have some of the best oils made....but we also have some of the worst oils made. Our best oils also sell for much cheaper than oil in Europe but many people here tend to go cheap...think 3~4 Euro a quart cheap where some of our best are only 6~7 Euro. Are oil stateside, and European ones sold here for regular street use were required by the Envirmental Protection Agency to remove a large portion of ZDDP (Zinc dialkyldithiophosphates). I won't go into a big discussion of ZDDP as their is a lot of good stuff on the internet but it is bascially a anit-wear additive. The EPA wanted Catalytic Converters to last longer, even if it was at the sacrifice of engine wear. Oils sold in Europe were not required to remove or reduce ZDDP, only oils sold in the U.S. Some small specialty manufacturers and lower volume manufacturers didn't have this requirement so that is where our best oil is, and really always has been. Good luck on your search.
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
    2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
    Roy, WA

  10. #28
    Registered User 1 bad 03 rs6's Avatar
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    What about this? This is what the local Audi dealer sold my friend before I bought the car from him.
    http://pentosin.net/pressreleases/Pento_II_5W-40.pdf

  11. #29
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    Any link to where I can purchase this Redline Oil? I used to live near Lane Automotive and could go get it in person but now that I'm in Ohio I'm not sure where to get it.

    10k is the recommended interval?
    - Scott Long -

  12. #30
    Registered User vodeftones's Avatar
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    I guess my thing about the oil anyone choses to use, I've used mobil 1, motul, amsoil, castrol, txt, blah blah blah. I have 120k miles on my 6 and have owned numerous Audi's and had countless numbers apart. I've had the heads off v6 and v8 Audi engines with over 200k miles and no wear on the cylinders. I've put new rod and main bearings in 1.8 sludge motors that the crank was all scored up, the cars are still on the road. IMHO unless ANY of our cars had 300,000 or 400,000 miles on them as long as 50501 synthetic oil was used and changed at the right time you will never ever have to worry about it. The rest of the vehicle will fall apart long before you can wear out the engine. I have never once seen a worn out Audi engine with normal maintenance because you can't wear them out. We will never wear a RS6 motor out...ever. A cam adjuster might grenade, oil pump blows up, a poorly cast camshaft breaks or oil pressure switch leaks all the oil out and ruins an engine is one thing but baring that. If the right oil was used and changed at the right time it won't happen. Pick your 50501 spec oil, run it and change it and it's all you can do. Let the shitstorm begin!

  13. #31
    Registered User lswing's Avatar
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    Thanks for bringing the thread back up, just got my rs6 and looking to do a change soon.

  14. #32
    Registered User 4everRS's Avatar
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    Vodeftones, I hope you didn't jinx yourself with that one!

    I agree. Properly maintained, this engine is amazing. Problem is what's behind it. Too bad the cosworth wasn't more utilized. But I guess then we owners would be as exclusive!
    Avus Silver RS6 - Viper Stage 2 ECU/TCU - Water/Meth Injection - Frozen Rotors - Hbars - clear corners - Hella smoked tails - gutted precats

  15. #33
    Registered User PixieVC's Avatar
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    Well, I'm resurrecting this dead thread - I wasn't able to find anyone locally with a 505.01 spec approved motor oil for the car - in the end I settled for something with a 502 certification, and had the car filled with Kendall GT-1 at 5w-40 weight... Hopefully I didn't make a mistake here!

    I also had the opportunity to watch the mechanic attempt an oil change with the car today - and suffice it to say, holy moly, that's a tough job. They had to unbolt the swaybar in order to get the filter out. It was also the first time I've seen a drain plug with an allen wrench key - not that I've seen many drain plugs in my time. The plastic shield on the bottom, thoughtfully bolted in with about 50 screws also has to come off to both drain the car, and access the oil filter. I've never seen a more complex operation for an oil change before. In comparison with my M5 - that was a 10 minute job to remove the filter, drain the oil, etc.

    I am curious as to what the recommended oil change interval is. The oil filter that my mechanic spent an hour trying to extract - when he finally got it out (and I took a close look at it) was an Audi OEM part with a lot of writing in German - and in very big letters it said 30,000 KM FILTER or something to that effect. 30,000 kilometers is 18,000 miles roughly - is the service interval for the oil that long under factory guidelines? Or is it just the service interval for the filter? Oil would be refreshed, and the filter would stay on for 3 changes or so? Regarding oil, my mechanic suggested a 7,500km change interval - he said I could go 10,000 miles most likely.

    And the oil that came out was utterly gross, nearly black. It was time to change it... whatever it was. I don't know how long the existing oil had been in there. Furthermore - what is a typical oil burn rate? I assume since it's a turbocharged car, it is normal to get some burn and some oil blowby - what are you all averaging? Quarts per miles (for the metric crippled amongst us)?

    Thanks everyone!

  16. #34
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    OEM spec oil should be pretty easy to find...not sure how different 502 is (if at all)

    I think 5k miles is interval

  17. #35
    Registered User kilian tuning's Avatar
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    Audi put 50501 Mobil fulll synthetic 5w30 in mine, which im not that happy with. im going to get 5w40...
    Mugello Blue C5 RS6 Avant Viper Tuning ECU/TCU
    MTM Bimoto wheels 9,5 x 19 ET 30 LK 5x112 with 275/30/19 tyres
    MTM exhaust system cat back 4-pipe with throttle valves in 2 pipes, control

  18. #36
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    I use Redline 5W-40 which exceeds pretty much any oils specifications, and for you, it is produced in Cali 5K to 6K change intervals are what I use and it may use up to 1 quart of oil between changes. You may want to shorten your next couple of changes to 4K to 5K in order to help clean any sludge that has built up since it sounds like your oil hadn't been changed in the past as often as it should.
    As for the newer cars, including the newer M5, they all have belly pans nowadays. As for the sway bar you only need to loosen the two back mounts to swing it out of the way and leave the two drop links alone. Amsoil also makes a very fine oil that rates almost as high as Redline but their are many other 505.1 oils out there, Motul, Lubrimoly, Swepco, Elf, Pentosin.
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
    2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
    Roy, WA

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