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Thread: Transmission drain and refill procedure.

  1. #1
    Registered User V8weight's Avatar
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    Transmission drain and refill procedure.

    I get a lot of pm's about servicing the gearbox on our cars, so rather than continuing to outline the fill procedure in private, I figured I'd post it up for all to see. First of all you need a Vag-com to monitor the fluid temp while you fill the trans. If you don't have one, don't try to fill the transmission You will also need a hand fluid pump which can be purchased at any auto parts store:


    And a 17mm allen socket, and a T27 torx bit:


    Step one is to raise the car (a lift is preferred, but jack stands are just fine). The car must be completely level (I usually just measure the distance from the ground to top of the wheel well and make sure they are within 1/4"). Now you can remove the drain plug (T27 torx) and drain the fluid. It's best to let it drain overnight, as the fluid has to be refilled starting with the car completely cold, or at the very least the fluid temp has to be below 30*c.

    The next step after the fluid has drained is to remove the pan, and clean the magnets that reside inside. Brake cleaner will work, or any other solvent (I like lacquer thinner). Now you can replace the strainer (audi part# 01L-325-429-B ) and reinstall the pan along with a new gasket (Audi part# 01L-321-371). Next reinstall the drain plug and torque to 12Nm. Now you can remove the fill plug (17mm Allen socket).

    Now, with your hand pump, fill the transmission until fluid starts to run out of the fill plug. Next get in the car and use the Vag-com to enter the transmission module, then select "measuring blocks" and enter block 004.
    Now place the computer where you can see it from both in and under the car, and start the car. Turn on the AC. You now have to get back under the car and immediately continue to pump fluid until it again starts to overflow from the fill hole.

    Now get back in the car, and with the emergency brake set, and your foot on the brakes, shift to reverse, then drive, holding each gear for 15 seconds. Now get under the car and add more fluid until it overflows from the fill hole.

    Get back in the car and do one more cycle of reverse, then drive for 15 seconds each. Now get back under the car and check that fluid is still running out of the fill hole, and add more fluid if necessary. Now you can start to monitor the vag. The goal is to have fluid overflowing from the fill hole when the fluid temp reaches 35*C. At that point, you can reinstall the fill plug and torque to 80Nm.

    That's it. When I service my trans, I usually do this procedure a second time after driving the car for about 20 miles, so as to get as much fluid out of the torque converter as possible. If you plan to do the same, wait to replace the filter until the second drain and fill.
    Pat - Eisenmann race exhaust, Catless downpipes, KW V3's, H-Sport sways, 034 Control arms, Apikol diff mount, Sterns motor mounts, Forge dv's, Stainless brake lines, Venair hoses, Sportec vent mod, Euro tails, Viper Tuned ecu/tcu, DPE S20's 19x9.5, 275/30/19's

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    Registered User skribe's Avatar
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    Nicely documented. I always just pumped it in a hot powertrain til it overflowed.

    And I see from a lexan receptacle in the background of your pictures that this procedure may include flushing the pat system with malt-based lubricants.

  3. #3
    Registered User TozoM8's Avatar
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    I would make sure that you can remove the filler plug before draining the trans. It would be bad if you have an empty trans that you can't refill http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articl...servicing.html
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    Registered User V8weight's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skribe View Post
    Nicely documented. I always just pumped it in a hot powertrain til it overflowed.

    And I see from a lexan receptacle in the background of your pictures that this procedure may include flushing the pat system with malt-based lubricants.
    Yep, why do you think I detest flex fuel cars? Ethanol is for Pat.

    Quote Originally Posted by TozoM8 View Post
    I would make sure that you can remove the filler plug before draining the trans. It would be bad if you have an empty trans that you can't refill http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articl...servicing.html
    Good point. I've yet to find one that I couldn't remove, but don't crawl under the car armed with anything less than a 24" 1/2" breaker bar.
    Pat - Eisenmann race exhaust, Catless downpipes, KW V3's, H-Sport sways, 034 Control arms, Apikol diff mount, Sterns motor mounts, Forge dv's, Stainless brake lines, Venair hoses, Sportec vent mod, Euro tails, Viper Tuned ecu/tcu, DPE S20's 19x9.5, 275/30/19's

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    Registered User snoopra's Avatar
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    Great write up! STICKY
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    What is the best type of transmission fluid for this procedure?

  7. #7
    Registered User marklar182's Avatar
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    Schaeffer Oil SAT204 Trans Fluid is what Tozo told me to get, and now I carry it and wholesale it from my shop. Lucky for me I have ky own shop, I have a trans flush machine. No worries of any old trans fluid left in the trans. I need to do mine soon too.
    www.jsmotorcar.com

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    So no one uses any exotic synthetic fluids or additives like all these people go on and on about? Nice that Audi picks good fluids.

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    Are the strainer and filter seperate parts? Do you always do both?
    Do you modify the filter pickup by cutting it to half an inch long like other have recommended?
    What do you torgue the pan bolts to?

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    How do you check the tranny fluid? Any way to check from under the hood? I want to see the condition of mine.

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    Registered User kevin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by colton14 View Post
    How do you check the tranny fluid? Any way to check from under the hood? I want to see the condition of mine.
    no "dipstick" however there is a standpipe on the bottom of the oil pan that is used to check oil level. needs to be a certain temp and level.
    2003 Rs6 Mugello/Ebony Eurocharged/APR R1 DV's/RNS-E/KW-v3/Hotchkis/Full Milltek Cat-less/Apikol IC's/D.O. water-meth/ 6 speed SOLD!! Next???

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    Roughly how many quarts does the tranny take?

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    Registered User marklar182's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by colton14 View Post
    Roughly how many quarts does the tranny take?
    For a fluid change; ~8-9 liters
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    Registered User V8weight's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by marklar182 View Post
    For a fluid change; ~8-9 liters
    In my experience it was always 6 quarts....I could drain and refill twice on 3 gallons...
    Pat - Eisenmann race exhaust, Catless downpipes, KW V3's, H-Sport sways, 034 Control arms, Apikol diff mount, Sterns motor mounts, Forge dv's, Stainless brake lines, Venair hoses, Sportec vent mod, Euro tails, Viper Tuned ecu/tcu, DPE S20's 19x9.5, 275/30/19's

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    Quote Originally Posted by V8weight View Post
    In my experience it was always 6 quarts....I could drain and refill twice on 3 gallons...
    I have been thinking to do the same since my light came on and goes off due to torque converter code. There is no signs of slipping and I have been hoping a fluid change may fix it. Great write up and illustration.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Eagle View Post
    I have been thinking to do the same since my light came on and goes off due to torque converter code. There is no signs of slipping and I have been hoping a fluid change may fix it. Great write up and illustration.
    Mine was fine at 90K+ miles, no slip no codes, and I decided to "preventatively" change my fluid and filter (with that high-end uber expensive BND fluid ... not blaming them tho) and within 300 miles it totally imploded. And I know I'm not the only one with similar circumstances. Could be coincidence but I believe the common wisdom is change fairly regularly if has been done so over cars life.... or don't touch it. Some say fresh detergents in new fluid can dislodge old and embedded deposits of gunk or whatever created by old fluid, that left alone would sit stationary as is and be fine but once fresh detergents in new fluid break them loose and they're floating around to get caught up in any of the multiple very small but mission critical fluid passages...you have a mission critical problem = dunzo trans. It was actually RS6 trans famous Tozo who told me that from his own mouth for one. Don't know about TC light, prob. bad TC if never serviced / changed. Just letting you know, search and read up on here you'll find threads. Sucks to go thru all that to only cause yourself big and immediate problems.

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    I appreciate the heads up and potential issues. It does make sense what you are saying. I am a new owner of RS6 and gave up and M5 that I owned for 9 years. I really like the feel that RS6 gives but the horror stories that I read about service issues got me a little bit on the edge. Ouh well you have to pay in order to play. I still am surprised how well build of performance for the time. Thanks, I will follow your advice and leave it alone and just drive it.

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