Willie,
Your killing me here. Haha
I dont know where to build my RV garage. 1 1/2 acres and I dont have a spot for it. Too many trees, driveways, shop, pool, yard, grass, ponds....crap.
I would need 10 bottles to cover my RV.
You want to hear something funny. I use Mopnglow on the roof of the motorhome. hahahah it works fantastic.
Hey Dave don't you live in AZ where the sun may as well be in your house its so hot. Where do you park that big ol expensive RV. Surely its to long to fit in that 36*36. If it is sitting outside all year long getting beat up by the sun, then that paint really needs an improved polish to protect it over the long haul. There isn't a wax made that can protect better than Acrylic. You may need three bottles and a buffer to save time but if you are going to spend big money on your toys then a few pennies to get advanced protection from the elements is a no brainer I think. The RS6 may sit in the shop a lot but when you do bring it out in the 120 degree sun, whatever wax you are using just melts right away and you are left with no protection and a beeswax paste on the surface of your nice expensive RS6. Trust me get a bottle try it and you'll see.[/quote]
Dhall, gets even more funny - I have gotten my wife to drive the SRX when it is really hot here as well - it is silver and it sits outside in any case ( only a two car garage ). Also GM makes great climate control systems for cooling off the car quickly. The Lexus is black on black - nuff said.
Willie, did the wife's Lexus - came out great - really deep shine. Now will see how it holds up. I was using P21 wax prior which looked great but was good for about 2-3 months at best.
The cool thing is the product did clean the headlight assemblies to looking like new. They had some oxidation on them and it completely cleared them up. Stuff works as advertised.
Maybe someday I can apply it on an RS6....
You will be just as impressed in 3 months, 6 months, and on out to 1yr if you wait that long to re-apply. We need pics though. Acrylic Werks will remove the film on your headlights as long as it is not Clear-coat. CC has to be wet sanded with 800 grit then 1000 grit then 1200 grit and finally 1500 grit sandpaper, then instead of using cc to shine it back up I would use AW.
Your RS6 is really going to need it by the time you get it back. One thing I have learned over the years is most grease monkey's (mech) don't care how dirty they get your car. LOL.
Just for reference, I gave the car a wash today after a 700 mile round trip to Iowa and back. It was covered in all the crud that usually follows a road trip (bugs, dirt and dust, tar, that grease that semi's seem to deposit on your hood, and those ground up worm guts that paste themselves on your rockers). It took no effort what so ever to clean anything off the car, what didn't just spray off with the hose required hardly any scrubbing. Not only that, but all my trim as well as the paint is just as shiny as when I first applied the Acrylic Werks, and it still beads water. Seems to be holding up quite well.
Pat - Eisenmann race exhaust, Catless downpipes, KW V3's, H-Sport sways, 034 Control arms, Apikol diff mount, Sterns motor mounts, Forge dv's, Stainless brake lines, Venair hoses, Sportec vent mod, Euro tails, Viper Tuned ecu/tcu, DPE S20's 19x9.5, 275/30/19's
I had the same results on a road trip to Atlanta. I was down there for a week and did not wash the car until I came back. 2000 miles in and around trip and a ticket later I washed it with just water a rag and a bucket. I used a high pressure hose to get all the crud off. It only took a wipe down and buff with a microfiber after that. Nothing stuck to the car, not even road tar.
Waxes, wax-based products nor vampires like direct sunlight or a warm surface because the petroleum distillates evaporate too quickly creating a very gummy surface that is difficult and sometimes impossible to remove. Since most waxes do not respond well under these circumstances it would only stand to reason why they are not getting deep into the pores to clean and remove contaminants.
The ACRYLIC-WËRKS POLISH works on all surfaces except carpet and cloth. (Note, if you do get ACRYLIC-WËRKS POLISH on your cloth or carpet use a little fingernail brush and brush it out, there will be no residual stains.) As for other surfaces on the average automobile we encourage you apply it to the paint, black plastic trim, black rubber seals, chrome, aluminum, vinyl, plastics, faded headlamps, plexiglass, glass, tint, chassis, suspension components, engine, all stock or after market rims and anywhere or on anything else I failed to mention. You will be amazed at the staggering results on these surfaces
Now for waxes and wax-based products, DO NOT GET WAX ON YOUR BLACK PLASTIC TRIM! / DO NOT GET WAX ON YOUR BLACK RUBBER SEALS! (Makes you feel like Picasso working around the trim pieces.) What goes on first? Wax or trim shine, decisions, decisions!! Most folks (me included) just threw in the towel and started applying wax like a Kindergartner with fresh finger paints and paper, “outta my way!!” In the end you just have to spend more time with a detail brush to get that finished look and in today’s market that can be very time consuming since most manufacturers are using more black trim and exposing more vulnerable black rubber seals than ever for aesthetic purposes. And remember, before you apply most wax products to a surface it is recommended by most companies that you try it in an inconspicuous spot first. Ever asked why? In my humble opinion it has to be for liability purposes. See waxes operate mechanically, by this I mean whether you use a buffer or good old fashion elbow grease you are instructed in most cases to apply the wax in a circular motion, so the abrasives within the product can ever so slightly remove some of the surface. Ever been curious about the origins of the dreaded swirl-marks or why most companies offer a swirl-mark cover up somewhere in the multiple stage application process?
Willie,
You mean I should not be using mop and glow on my paint finish?
Dhall - ANYONE knows that you should be using Pledge since it "waxes as it dusts" !
I really do use mop and glow. Its used on the roof of the motorhome. A secret trick that motorhome owners use on the top surface of the rig.
I would need 2000 dollars of Willie's special wax to cover the 40ft motorhome. Mop and glow is second best and 4 dollars covers the roof 2 times.
Spring is here, time for polishing. Time for Acrylic Werks.
Yep, return customer here. I just ordered three more bottles. This stuff is the real deal. 80k miles and shines better than new.
Pat - Eisenmann race exhaust, Catless downpipes, KW V3's, H-Sport sways, 034 Control arms, Apikol diff mount, Sterns motor mounts, Forge dv's, Stainless brake lines, Venair hoses, Sportec vent mod, Euro tails, Viper Tuned ecu/tcu, DPE S20's 19x9.5, 275/30/19's