Post your Dynolicious Results Here - Hope they're better than mine.

[BenA]

Ok- so this may explain why I've been less than impressed with my so-called "beast." Here are my Dynolicious inputs:
2003 Audi RS6
Weight: 4325 pounds
Drivetrain loss: 22%
Temp: 50 degrees F
...and the F$%^&in stellar results...
0-10mph 0.91 sec
0-20mph 1.65 sec
0-30mph 2.51 sec
0-40mph 3.61 sec
0-50mph 4.93 sec
0-60mph 6.48 sec
0-70mph 8.44 sec
Max Accel = 0.61 Gs
...AND (wait for it)...
Peak Power (crank): 266hp
Peak Power (wheel): 208hp

Sweet. So my wife's mini-van has more horsepower than my "beast." Seriously though, I could only do 2 clean runs... the 1st didn't hook up very well. The 2nd felt about as good as this car ever feels so I think that's the best it can do (S mode, traction off). It sounds fast, and seems to pull smoothly (if not real hard) through all gears. It's certainly never been brutally fast at holeshot which one would get from a 500hp Vette or Mustang (only comparable hp cars I've driven) but probably not from a smaller turbo-charged engine in a heavy car-- and I've just never felt that this is a 500hp car (oh yeah... it's supposed to have the MTM tune for 500+hp - confirmed by Hoppen). I guess next step is VagCom (or sale- as I said, I'm in South Dakota... not exactly brimming with great Audi mechanics). Is it too much to ask to just have a car run like it's claimed to run without having to check/tune/diagnose/confirm/etc.?!?!

[DHall1]

As the 1001 other threads have clearly pointed out.

Vag com log block 115. Then we move on from there.

Its a car. Its a car that makes alot of heat under the hood. Heat breaks down rubber. You could have a 5c rubber vac line break that could cause the whole thing.

But we cant do diddly without Vag.

[SAFE4NOW]

There are several other variables as well...

What Dyno system were you using? Did you have the proper airflow across the front of the car? What HP@50 #'s were used?
What weight was inputed for the car itself,etc..

There are alot of reasons your car pulled those numbers, I am sure we can help figure it out.

S

[BenA]

There are several other variables as well...

What Dyno system were you using? Did you have the proper airflow across the front of the car? What HP@50 #'s were used?
What weight was inputed for the car itself,etc..

This is not a real Dyno system (unfortunately there are no 4-wheel dynos within 500 miles of me), but instead a iphone/blackberry app that is admittedly probably a very crude tool using the internal motion-sensor as an accelerometer (just put the device in your cupholder and slam on the gas and go as fast as you can). I think my Blackberry Storm is a garbage device too, so I'm not completely trusting in the results - but truth remains still in seat-of-the-pants feel. As for the weight input, it was just a stab at car weight + a svelte 210 pound of me + 70 pounds of gas (half tank at the time) and miscellaneous crap in the car.

Other reason behind the thread - I thought it would just be interesting to see the variability from others since Dynolicious is such an easy app to use and at least I've seen here that it's supposed to be fairly accurate.

[BenA]

As the 1001 other threads have clearly pointed out.

Vag com log block 115. Then we move on from there.

I know... I know. All hail Vag-com
It's even more clear now that I'm going to have to take that step. Does anyone know if it's typical for audi service to have vag-com? I know the guys there pretty well and have given them a lot of business over the years. I asked one of them but he looked at me like I had two heads. :eye:

[DuckWingDuck]

no, real audi techs has a much better system from audi system; however, most techs I know have a vagcom on the side or at least KNOWS about them.

Much better as in more pro rather than the prosumer version that is vagcom (btw, this is not a knock on vagcom which is a great system, but it doesn't have many of the functionalities as the audi computer)

[SAFE4NOW]

Oh I understand now, I didn't realize that you were discussing an ap.

Steve

[Spidercat]

Just downoaded the app last night and will try it soon. I hear it's a pretty good tool to see which mods are actually helping, in that it is precise. If you put the correct data in and secure it well during use, it's supposed to be pretty accurate, too.
Just glancing over the instructions, don't you have to lie it flat in the car, like on the floor? It says it has to be secured well so it doesn't move relative to the car during testing.

The "hp" numbers are derived from the acceleration values and weight/drivetrain loss numbers that you supply. Does anyone know for sure if the gross vehicle weight on the door post is fully loaded (with all fluids/full tank of gas) or if this includes solar sunroof or other options? Or spare tire (didn't know til recently that euro versions have no spare)? Better still, would anyone have the actual weight of an RS6 from truck stop/drag scales? Someone did a while back---just can't find it.

Lastly, the 22% drivetrain loss--where'd you get that? Sounds low for both quattro and tip. What's everyone else using for this #?

[peiserg]

i think my drivetrain loss was minimum of 25%. I put down something like 350 awhp.. after tinkering for a while with swapping new parts in... originally i was at 318!! this was in the heat of a phoenix summer.. with the shit ass gas we have here...

[DALLAS_RS6]

Ok- so this may explain why I've been less than impressed with my so-called "beast." Here are my Dynolicious inputs:
2003 Audi RS6
Weight: 4325 pounds
Drivetrain loss: 22%
Temp: 50 degrees F
...and the F$%^&in stellar results...
0-10mph 0.91 sec
0-20mph 1.65 sec
0-30mph 2.51 sec
0-40mph 3.61 sec
0-50mph 4.93 sec
0-60mph 6.48 sec
0-70mph 8.44 sec
Max Accel = 0.61 Gs
...AND (wait for it)...
Peak Power (crank): 266hp
Peak Power (wheel): 208hp

Sweet. So my wife's mini-van has more horsepower than my "beast." Seriously though, I could only do 2 clean runs... the 1st didn't hook up very well. The 2nd felt about as good as this car ever feels so I think that's the best it can do (S mode, traction off). It sounds fast, and seems to pull smoothly (if not real hard) through all gears. It's certainly never been brutally fast at holeshot which one would get from a 500hp Vette or Mustang (only comparable hp cars I've driven) but probably not from a smaller turbo-charged engine in a heavy car-- and I've just never felt that this is a 500hp car (oh yeah... it's supposed to have the MTM tune for 500+hp - confirmed by Hoppen). I guess next step is VagCom (or sale- as I said, I'm in South Dakota... not exactly brimming with great Audi mechanics). Is it too much to ask to just have a car run like it's claimed to run without having to check/tune/diagnose/confirm/etc.?!?!

I also have a 500 h.p. MTM tune and with a "Dyno ap" I put down almost identical numbers. With that being said It's been on the dyno and put down 417 h.p. to the wheels. Basicaly these aps. just don't work that great. Don't worry I garuantee those numbers are way off.

[BenA]

Just downoaded the app last night and will try it soon. I hear it's a pretty good tool to see which mods are actually helping, in that it is precise. If you put the correct data in and secure it well during use, it's supposed to be pretty accurate, too.
Just glancing over the instructions, don't you have to lie it flat in the car, like on the floor? It says it has to be secured well so it doesn't move relative to the car during testing.

The "hp" numbers are derived from the acceleration values and weight/drivetrain loss numbers that you supply. Does anyone know for sure if the gross vehicle weight on the door post is fully loaded (with all fluids/full tank of gas) or if this includes solar sunroof or other options? Or spare tire (didn't know til recently that euro versions have no spare)? Better still, would anyone have the actual weight of an RS6 from truck stop/drag scales? Someone did a while back---just can't find it.

Lastly, the 22% drivetrain loss--where'd you get that? Sounds low for both quattro and tip. What's everyone else using for this #?

(These are Blackberry Storm directions... iphone may vary) It doesn't have to be flat, but it does have to be perfectly straight (not cocked sideways at all) so that the screen points toward the top or rear of the vehicle. I placed mine in the cupholder inside the armrest and "secured" it by holding it with my hand. The site says to wedge some foam or cloth in there to hold it. I have read 22%-25% drivetrain loss here, so yes 22% is on the low side. I'm going to try again at some point just to make sure I didn't have it crooked or something.

[Spidercat]

Huh? So the app gave a 0-60 of about 6.5 sec for both of you guys w/MTM chip? And both well secured?
Do you get similar results with just a stopwatch and checking the speedo? 6.5 sounds a couple seconds too high, esp w/a chip.
I'll have to try mine out and see.

[BenA]

Huh? So the app gave a 0-60 of about 6.5 sec for both of you guys w/MTM chip? And both well secured?
Do you get similar results with just a stopwatch and checking the speedo? 6.5 sounds a couple seconds too high, esp w/a chip.
I'll have to try mine out and see.

I'm going to try some runs again. I know the unit was secured but it might have been sitting slightly askew (instead of perfectly aligned with screen facing rear).

[RS6-4dr911]

Just made some runs yesterday on a cool day. Best 0-60 was 5.8, launch may not have been ideal. It did feel kind of sluggish of the line, but at about 20mph felt pretty darn strong.

On other attempts, I've tried the stall the torque converter approach but I'm afraid ( I think it has done this) that the initial jerk of loading it up will set off the timer and mess up your runs. So for these, it was pretty much just releasing the brake and rolling into it.

I had it floored to the kick down switch, is there more throttle to be had by pressing further (into the kickdown)? I thought I remember reading that pressing just until you felt the first stop of the kickdown was full throttle.

And yes, Dave, (peremptory strike) I was logging group 115 at the same time. Going to spend some time analyzing before posting - was trying to get a before and after on ITG filters I just put in. On that note, anyone know what group or specific block will record A/F ratio? Or is that somehow calculated by taking other readings first?

[DHall1]

Log oxygen sensors to determine A/F

Its not exact but it will give a general idea

Just made some runs yesterday on a cool day. Best 0-60 was 5.8, launch may not have been ideal. It did feel kind of sluggish of the line, but at about 20mph felt pretty darn strong.

On other attempts, I've tried the stall the torque converter approach but I'm afraid ( I think it has done this) that the initial jerk of loading it up will set off the timer and mess up your runs. So for these, it was pretty much just releasing the brake and rolling into it.

I had it floored to the kick down switch, is there more throttle to be had by pressing further (into the kickdown)? I thought I remember reading that pressing just until you felt the first stop of the kickdown was full throttle.

And yes, Dave, (peremptory strike) I was logging group 115 at the same time. Going to spend some time analyzing before posting - was trying to get a before and after on ITG filters I just put in. On that note, anyone know what group or specific block will record A/F ratio? Or is that somehow calculated by taking other readings first?