Pat - Eisenmann race exhaust, Catless downpipes, KW V3's, H-Sport sways, 034 Control arms, Apikol diff mount, Sterns motor mounts, Forge dv's, Stainless brake lines, Venair hoses, Sportec vent mod, Euro tails, Viper Tuned ecu/tcu, DPE S20's 19x9.5, 275/30/19's
ya, if there's no finger clearance, you're def going to have rubbing issues. my left front had to be jacked up because I was rubbing going into turns. Of course, I am also running an unhealthy 20 :P
Alright. Just measured from the center of the hub to the the fender.
Front = 13"
Rear = 13 3/4"
Going to make an appt with the dealer to get this fixed...
2003 Audi RS6
2004 Porsche Cayenne S
Lemme know the results if you don't mind before I throw them on my car. I still have a ton of room left to go down, though.
I'm at 12 3/4 in the front and 12 7/8 in the rear, and I've never had my tires rub even with 4 adults in the car. Maybe the Kw's don't offer as much suspension travel? I remember seeing your car in person and thinking to myself that the tires seemed abnormally wide. They obviously have a larger section width than the PS2's that I'm running.
Pat - Eisenmann race exhaust, Catless downpipes, KW V3's, H-Sport sways, 034 Control arms, Apikol diff mount, Sterns motor mounts, Forge dv's, Stainless brake lines, Venair hoses, Sportec vent mod, Euro tails, Viper Tuned ecu/tcu, DPE S20's 19x9.5, 275/30/19's
Questions:
1. Is anyone SURE that the DRC doesn't have to be opened just to replace the springs? Someone had written "no need to open the DRC," but my mech friend couldn't see how. I really want to avoid the dealer due to the logistics/timing/price. He's willing to do it, but understandably doesn't want to open the system.
2. Does anyone have any input re:stiffer (H&R) springs on the rear only? I would intuitively think that it would make the car tend to OVERsteer more (which is fine with me), much like a stiffer rear sway bar. The front height doesn't bother me that much. I would also avoid any potential rubbing problems if I did the rears only. The ride height is about an inch higher in the rear now, and the H&R drop the rear 1 inch, so I would think I'd be just about even.
Any thoughts?
I replaced my complete DRC system in order to install my KW's and as I did it I thought about the H&R's as I had originally purchased them but later decided not to bother with the DRC. If a mechanic was very careful the springs could be installed without opening the system. I think two people would help very much. One to hold all of the lines steady and one to operate the spring compressor tool and remove the springs. The springs on my "New Fix" DRC weren't under much compression and they could probably be replaced without need for a spring compressor tool.
2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
Roy, WA
So if I get the H&R's will you help me put them in?
The connection to the DRC is at the bottom of the strut, so you should be able to change the springs without disconnecting. You might have to twist yourself into unholy positions, but you should be ok.
You can see the eye hole for the banjo bolt at the bottom of the strut, just before the shaft.
I can't help thinking that you should be getting rid of the DRC altogether...
Thanks, guys!
I wholly agree this is a band-aid until I get a real suspension setup. The new drc "feels" a lot better, but my car no longer looks like it did before the fix. Just trying to get it to look "right" again.
I would agree with your statement. If you end up just doing the rear springs, and not the front I would think you would have a car that no longer handles correctly though. I don't know the weight of either the stock springs, or the H&R's. As long as they are both linear you probably won't have that much of a problem, but if the H&R's are progressive and the stocks are linear you will get some very sporadic handling from the rear of the car. If you go this route I'd like to see pictures and get your input. I'm just like you as far as I don't think the front looks bad, just the rear. Let us know. Thanks!
Thanks. You make some good points. The H&R's are progressive (don't know about the stocks). They are stiffer than stock, but I don't know the load rating difference. I'll look into it. I think that putting on both F/R would lower the car even MORE (proportionately) in front (1.4 inches) compared to the rear (1 inch), so it would "look" even worse than it does now. That can't be good for handling either.
Either way, since these are the only springs available, I can always add the fronts later, or switch the rears back to stock if the minor variation in how it handles (if it's even apparent) is somehow worse than having to look at the drc mullet (business in the front, :trash: in the back). I will definitely post pictures whichever I do.
Most understeer-prone track/race cars have stiffer rear spring rates to help compensate, no? I really don't think my car is going to flip over in a corner just because I stiffen the rear springs (I'm willing to take that gamble), or even lose a couple seconds/lap at the local track. I should be so lucky as to have a local track.