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Thread: DIY: Test/Fix intercooler leaks w/bumper removal procedure

  1. #91
    Registered User Amar's Avatar
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    Car is with Martin now having work done, it is 464 crank and 362 at the wheels. I am 100% certain that the car is standard.

    Brav - Here is a photo, it looks like a significant leak to me.

    Current: V10 RS 6 Saloon, 420mm Ceramics, MRC, Milltek, MTM bits, Audi exclusive bits - 757BHP/967NM
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  2. #92
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    Then Audi gave the Plus a very good tune or the dyno was a little weak as the only difference in the engine between the regular 6 and the + is th ECU and the regular 6's have had a tough time if only barely matching Audi's (Stock) claims after the drivetrain conversions. But since most tuners on the regular 6 claim around 500+ then the 6+ claim of 480 may have been a little conservative. The hardware between the two engines is identical.
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
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  3. #93
    Registered User mdegracia's Avatar
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    Has anyone performed this repair while placing the intercooler under a slight vacuum, if leaks are present?

    I think I'm gonna try it...then release the vacuum after a "sufficient" amount of material has been drawn into the leak...
    03 RS6 Daytona Grey - EFI Express - 01e - SRM K24 - Aquamist - 495whp/580ft-lbs

  4. #94
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    Don't let too much go in, you don't want bits of JB weld breaking off and being sucked into your engine.

  5. #95
    Registered User speedtrapped's Avatar
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    why not place IC under pressure??? a memeber in Uk did this when he had his removed. U can buy rubber end caps, use a schrader valve(drill hole, stick valve thru, epoxy or rubber cement to seal valve) take a big bucket, put IC's under pressure(if there is a leak, more then likely u will hear it) and dump in bucket. Same goes for jb weld fix, put under pressure, 12-16 psi and dump in bucket, look for leaks or none if u did a good job....mine went wooooosssshhhhh last year, hence the wagners(expensive, but German made-the stocks are not)
    Ebony/Black, DBR Stage 3 race kit, -SOLD :( 996TT Proto 650 basically a sardine can with a rocket attached to the back...11' CTS-V, 540/579RWP hehehehe ;)

  6. #96
    Registered User kday's Avatar
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    I can see why the idea of doing it under vacuum is appealing, but I think in practice it might not work well. With the epoxy, it's sufficient cover the crack, and it's not necessary to get epoxy inside the crack itself.

  7. #97
    Registered User ryan4186's Avatar
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    Is there a way to see the original photos on the first post? I'm guessing because the thread is so old the photos disappeared? Please let me know if it's just me that can't see the original pics.

  8. #98
    Registered User lswing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryan4186 View Post
    Is there a way to see the original photos on the first post? I'm guessing because the thread is so old the photos disappeared? Please let me know if it's just me that can't see the original pics.
    You could find some using Google I'm guessing. It's fairly easy, you seeing oil seeping out or what? Remove and refurbish, or upgrade them by rebuilding.
    Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com

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