And they actually have/had one in stock? Lucky! Everyone I tried had zero stock.
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In stock, and fast processing. That was a year ago. I would call them with any questions.
That looks like it was found underwater. What is the minimum voltage while running and driving? I'm seeing 13.2/13.3 which I think is too low. Upon starting my car it runs at 12v for about 30 seconds. My battery light is faintly lit. Mechanic put a new voltage regulator in a while back. I think I need a new alternator. But I'll have to check the voltage at the alternator.
Minimum voltage should be 13.4-13.6. Brand new out of the box the Vset is supposed to give 14.3v.
From the symptoms you're talking about (12v on startup, ramp to 13.2-13.3 once warmed up), it sounds like you have a good Vset in, but likely need brushes and bearings. Rebuild cost from Kaestner will likely be in the $225-275 range. If maniacelectricmotors can do better pricing and have a forward replacement, more power to them.
I did finally get my 2-hours-used alternator back yesterday and am willing to send out on the conditions above, dibs to Turbowned since he's been asking the longest. $500 to my PayPal, with $150 refund once I get the core back.
O_E
maniac didn't have any when I was looking.
I followed all the steps here and successfully uninstalled all nearby hoses, sway bar, the two wires and the two bolts holding the alternator on. When the alternator was seemingly "free", I cannot for the life of me get it to come out. It appears the two "ears" the come up from the alternator housing and line up with the support brace for the top bolt to slide through - that bolt is removed and not broken - the alternator will pivot back and forth on this point, but I cannot get it to come down. I've tried wiggling it back and forth for almost an hour, wrapping a belt around it and using a bar to leverage it down, and pulling from various angles with a pry bar - ultimately about 3 hours with 2 guys pulling at it a dozen ways. It won't come lose. Does anyone has any wisdom for this? Maybe something super simple that we're missing I hope, but at this point, if I can't figure out how to remove it I will have to get a flat bed and have it hauled to a shop.
Ryan,
I had a similar experience. Maybe yours is a bit worse. I ended up getting pissed of enough that I just started jerking HARD on a large pry bar, and I saw it coming out. It is literally just wedged in those ears. I would spray some very good penetrating lube on it and pry more. Good luck.
Upon reinstallation, I sanded off some of the material in the alternator to get it back in better. This was all on my first rs6. Now totaled and disappeared.
I can second what 4everRS said. I had my engine out and still struggled, it was literally just squeezed so tight it felt like it was still bolted. When I reinstalled it I also sanded it a bit as 4everRS mentioned.
I will third what Kyle (4everRS) and P1054 stated.... I too resorted to a pry bar to lever the bitch downward while pivoting it back and forth. Once out, I chamfered the ears using a file to facilitate re-installation as Kyle suggested. Good luck and don't give up!
Haven't had the pleasure of replacing my alternator myself, but I did have fun with getting the wrong part from a reseller...
Apparently somewhere along the lines, there was an issue with an interchange part number being circulated. The interchange number (0124615008) is listed as compatible with the RS6, but it is not. The shaft is too short, not thick enough, and is recessed into the housing about 8 millimeters. The correct part number is Audi P/N 077903015R. I managed to track down the ETKA parts listing thanks to Jim Ellis parts site, and the pulley is also a different part number (since it's made to fit a wider shaft) - 077903119F
I'm still sorting out the mayhem that all caused when I tried to do a local guy a solid by handing over my bench spare. Kaestner Auto Electric is now rebuilding said spare to have the proper parts for the next time around.
Lesson of the day - if you need an alternator, don't use the interchange part. Audi OE only, P/N 077903015R - accept no substitutes.
O_E
The problem with getting them in/out is pretty universal with all the Audi platforms. The rear of the alternator where the long bolt threads in is a sleeve that ends up getting pulled towards the front when the long bolt is tightened.
Once you wiggle it out, you can press or gently tap the sleeve away from the front side of the alternator and it becomes easier to get back in.
On a similar note, I'm experimenting with an alternate alternator :) to see if the abundant 4.2 one (in the A8s among other ones) will work with the RS6 regulator. I think that ht only difference in the regulator is that the connector is different? I'm not sure what else it would be. Why they would have made the RS6 one specific from the other 4.2 alternators is beyond me. They're all 200A, correct?
150A, not 200. From my experience with the "interchange" part, there's a difference in the input shaft length, diameter, and depth, as well as the pulley being a different part (to snug to the larger shaft in the RS6 specific alternator)
If you can find a better way, I'm all for it, especially if we can have a higher-output alternator... HID fog lights, here I come!
O_E
Alright, I'm towing mine home tomorrow and DIY'ing this job. My indy's quoting me $1200 for parts/labor for alt and battery and I just can't justify that when I can spend $100 on a tow, $2-250+shipping for Kaestner to rebuild, and cost+10% on the battery considering I work for Firestone now (pity I can't work on my own car on the lifts at work).
Question: when unbolting the oil cooler lines, do you have to disconnect them and drain the oil or just unbolt them from their mounting position?
Regulator can be swapped out in-situ also depending on your tools and size of hands.
Tried swapping the regulator to no avail. Got it home today and put a fresh battery in it, now the car won't start; just turns over and immediately dies. I started a new thread...