Replied to wrong thread.....duh. sorry
Quote:
Originally Posted by boca rat
Replied to wrong thread.....duh. sorry
Quote:
Originally Posted by boca rat
Pentosin is about the same as other OEM European made oils. Good, but leaves a lot on the table due to OE spec limitations. Pentosin is factory fill in most power steering systems - RS6 included.
If Amsoil is of interest there's free shipping at www.oilpro.myamsoil.com First choice in my car is their 5/50 Signature Series (AMR), or 5/40 European (EFM). Also for the A4 2.0T, now with almost 190,000 miles.
Excellent oil filters as well. You're ears will notice the difference...
Gross, as in thick, or?Quote:
Originally Posted by fukinavit
Was on the Redline bandwagon for about 10 years prior to the 20 year run with Amsoil so far. Admittedly it was out of desperation being in Wisconsin where it's made. It immediately proved itself in sub zero temps. Based on gleaning tech specs and white paper report, was impressed with their consistent performance across the board compared to other key players- engine, trans/ATF and gear oils. Best oil filter for the RS6 I've found so far as well. Completes the package of protection as it were.
Redline is made in California of all places. Redline is also a Group IV oil which most synthetics are Group II or III. I also challenge you to check the websites of all the oil manufacturers to find a higher HTHS oil which is one of the first restrictions on VAG 505.01 which most other oils only meet the minimum and Redline's HTHS exceeds by a margin.
Can one of you add to your comments about "best oil filter"? In what way and how do you know?
Thx!
The word "excellent" was certainly used.Quote:
Originally Posted by boca rat
I like Amsoil filters because they reduce the time required to build oil pressure into the heads. This helps reduce top end noise on startup. I further like the filters because they are synthetic media which filters far better than paper media types. The micron rating is lower and the percentage of debris caught is nearly 100%. They also last longer with more consistent performance.
After doing countless oil services on all sorts of European cars, it always makes me cringe to see a paper element become hard, brittle, usually caving in from the excessive resistance. At a certain point the oil filter can cause the over pressure valve to open. This allows unfiltered oil back into the engine.
Having changed a lot of oil on RS6's (besides just mine), simply using an Amsoil filter always helps to reduce startup noises. Of course I'm using Amsoil engine oil. Not many companies are quite so OCD to make their own filters and oil. Pretty cool in my book.
Interesting read: https://blog.amsoil.com/how-much-syn...-is-in-my-oil/
I lived about an hour from where Redline is made. Every private or amateur racecar at Sears Point Raceway ran it. Could almost run a oil line to the track. I joined in.
HTHS is crucial but not the only metric for choosing an oil. There's about 10 performance benchmark tests. Some are mandated, some elective in testing.
For fun looked at Redline and Amsoil the other day for their respective OE 505.01 spec 5/40 European lubes. Near identical to the untrained eye. Oddly Redline has a much higher (11%) NOACK burnoff. It also has slightly less viscosity at the 40wt rating in Kinematic terms which is far more accurate. I recall HTHS being the same/close at 3.8, including VI @ 168 (extremely high). TBN is limited to about 8. This is just slightly above 7pH being neutral. If splitting hairs Amsoil has the advantage.
I'm not sure Redline exceeds the HTHS by any significant margin, other than a margin.
Far as the 505.01 spec goes I avoid it due to reduced SAPS PPM's and reduced TBN. TBN really plays into the final acidity levels. I've seen UOA's where TBN was flagged. Most OE specs oils become so acidic it attacks engine seals. Helps cause oil leaks. It can even eat away at engine bearings. No fun. I prefer "unregulated" oils allowing higher TBN levels. Even Amsoil mid grade 5/40 Euro is at 10. The 5/50 is pushing 13. I challenge anyone to find it any higher- if we're doing the challenge thing.
We tend to get so wound up on operational/running specs it's easy to forget most engine wear occurs during startup. High SAPS/Zinc PPM's are crucial no matter the oil Group type. End of the day protecting the engine is first priority in my book.
https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2880.pdfQuote:
Originally Posted by hahnmgh63
Have a look at the 5/50. That'll wet anyone's whistle for off the chart specs.
The V10 gets it next - 14 qts worth.
I'll throw this out from Redlines data sheets, as you can see I am a big Redline fan. They have two 5w-40 oils, the regular and what they call the Euro series. Pretty close specs but probably slightly different due to manufacturer certifications, both meet VAG 505.01 though, and the NOACK on both lists at 6%. The regular has a HTHS of 4.4 and the Euro is listed at 4.3. Once again not sure of the formulation differences but I have been using the regular for 20yrs and don't see the need to go to the Euro series.
Been running BND in my car here in NY and have had no issues. Not sure what you mean by "gross". Perhaps reach out to Brian?Quote:
Originally Posted by fukinavit
Basically if you run your car below zero (c) use something else.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cmnair
I got caught when winter came early, my car was sat at work for a few days when I returned to pick it up. Was about - 5c and engine clattered away and oil pressure light remained on for about 10 seconds.
I did an oil change in my garage a few days later and the oil drained like tar, all congealed and separated. My garage heater had quit so again it was around zero when I did this.
For an advertised 8w oil it's way too thick for me. Probably okay for warmer climates but certainly not year round use for me.
I went to redline 5w40 and she likes it alot better, alot cheaper, good start up and no noises = win win
Hmmm interesting ....never had a single issue in the winter in NY