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This should be a fun thread to watch!
Let the games begin!
And don't forget about electronic gremlins that will BUST your balls to no end.
And......15 year old inner parts.......if your going to 'build' your engine to 600plus hp you have to rebuild your engine to 450 hp first.
Mike
What kind of electronic gremlins are common on this car?Quote:
Originally Posted by Aronis
I had 2000 Jeep once with wiring issues... that was a pain.
hmm why would it need a rebuild for a mere 450hp when I'm seeing it can be pushed for 600hp?
car only has 120k.
isnt 450 is still in the chip/intake/exhaust category?
It's 15 years old. The parts of the whole which allow the car to be able to produce 450 hp in stock form are WORN and not functioning at peak performance. Thus "rebuild the engine to make 450 hp first......" If you just add new components to a weak, elderly base engine, it will die! So in your quest for more power from this old platform ( as opposed to the early modified cars such as the MTM monster done with cars a couple years old with few miles on them) you must consider this also.Quote:
Originally Posted by RS6Goals
For example, my wire harness had to practically bare wires running to the secondary air pump. A wisp of insulation between them stood between function and fire!
Mechanical parts subject to friction and heat, for example the cam tensioner pads wear out and can have catastrophic effects, the repair takes several hours of labor and close to $1700 in parts. About 15 hours from a sitting car, but less than three if the engine is out.
Engine seals, which are difficult to get at without an engine pull, a transmission separation and many hours of labor, leak! - rear main seal flange for example.
The electrical gremlins I speak of are out there lurking for all of us with this old car to soon experience. Mark my words. I happened to be the first to see the failed DRC and predicted that every DRC would fail. Search the thread I posted 12 years ago. And now I am the first to see this issue with the odd short at fuse 15. Not much out there on it. DAM IT. (it goes to instrument panel and A/C some how, bentley manual is not complete in this). Other things just wear out, ignition switch, microswitches in doors, etc.
So if your goal is to take a 15 year old engine and maximize it's output at the crank, you have to make sure that its in the shape you need it to be to start! IE. "Rebuild it to 450 hp first."
Mike
OMG this is funny.
Attachment 18452
I don't profess to run the fastest RS6 out there, but I am a far cry away from the slowest. These cars can lay down 3.5 0-60 and 1.6 60ft time slips. They can also be in mid 11's in the 1/4mile WITHOUT different turbos or a 6spd. Run the numbers and you can quickly ascertain how much HP/TQ you're talking about to get a 4300-4400pb car that distance in that time.
To the original poster, how much faster do you need to be for a 4dr luxury sport car? You must really really want to prove a point. That or you have mounds of money in disposable cash. I can think of dozens of other rides out there that you will realize a more rewarding end result for less than this platform.
Pardon my ignorance, but I'm yet to see <3.8 0-60 and <12 quarter from stock turbos automatic RS6 on pump gas. And I've seen many.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigglezworth
Realistically you're looking at low 4s and low 12s. Just barely sub-4s if you're lucky.
Talking "normal road conditions" ofc. Numbers you quoted might be achievable on prepped track.
EDIT:
Made an emphasis on what I was talking about. Not arguing that it can go faster on track and with some race gas mixed in.
But you shouldn't really be expecting to hang with all the new cars that can go mid 3s 0-60 on the way from grocery store.
PM me. I have video....Quote:
Originally Posted by nubcake
Oh your talking about a full reset. I belong on the other side of that thinking, I like to push what I have(after the basic maintenance/everything is up and running/comp/leak test.) If I'm opening the engine its getting upgraded internals, if I do that I will end up shooting into the higher hp goal.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aronis
Thanks for the heads up, ill make sure to double check the wirings when I drop the engine.
Why do you say 4300-4400? When I looked this up it's in 4100lbs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigglezworth
I don't have a point to prove. I just like my cars to be fast (fast to me). It's unreasonable I know. Its just one of those things. I'm sure you know what I'm talking about otherwise, you probably wouldn't have owned an RS6.
Im all ears about the other platform. I've been searching for quite a while and this car meets 80% of my requirements.
I thought I looked at all options but It wouldn't surprise me if I missed one.
Just a heads up I'm picky to what I want. Heres something I require.
AWD
V8 torque
turbo preferred but SC is fine
manual prefered but willing to overlook(Yes I looked at manual conversion before I purchased this car)
Light (yea this is the only thing RS6 didnt meet for me)
5 seater(could be 4 if coupe)
power=this just means mods but a good base helps.
What I will no longer touch.
Torqueless wonders. even at 3.0L supras has a big lag(which is why I prefer v8) So this really cuts out the s4/wrx/evo/eclipse/talons
RWD at high power sucks on the streets. I was only at 600whp and with 315 DR I still had no 1st or 2nd traction.
and of course no 2 seater
Only option other than this car was building my own LS based AWD.
Wait
let me go get some popcorn
Your efforts would be better directed towards a C7 S6 or better yet an RS7 if you're into the sportback look. What you will spend in time/R&D/buckets of cash chasing this rabbit is readily available for that platform.
If you stick with the C5, tune it to a proven 525-ish hp, keep up on maintenance and enjoy it.
Dude. I don't know how skinny your ass is, but mine adds a solid 200+ soaking wet to that 4100, and if you then add a helmet and actually wearing clothes that day at the track, you're easily at 4300-4400....Quote:
Originally Posted by RS6Goals
Quote:
Originally Posted by bethridg
Im not following this logic. Unless im missing something isnt the c7 s6 only rated at 420hp? so even after a chipped RS6, s6 is more money for slower?
and not to be an @$$ but did you really just bring up a RS7 into this, I mean the price difference alone...I don't know about your financial situation but I certainly cannot afford a 100k car :lovl:
Oh, I wasnt talking track so I didnt know you were talking about race weight with driver type weigh in.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigglezworth
I'm still waiting for your suggestion btw. Id be happy to consider other options if it will actually be rewarding and not disappointing in the end.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigglezworth
Youtube is your friend
10sec C7 S6 is simple bolt ons and a tune.
10sec C5 RS6 does not exist
all in a 10sec S6 will cost you under 40k
even if you picked up a cheap RS6 for 10k...30k does not get you in the 10s
Quote:
Originally Posted by RS6Goals
I find it hard to believe that there's not a single C5 RS6 in the world that runs 10. Either way, I don't know why you're bringing up 1/4 mile times when I kept saying street DD use. All I was asking for was 600whp to start and moving into the 800whp category later down the line. are you telling me this isn't attainable too?Quote:
Originally Posted by DHall1
You must have a lot of money to burn to be throwing around a 40k car. I hope you can at least understand that not everyone can just dump an additional 30k in one go. Well at least I cant. :lovl:
Edit: Suppose to say I can't (drop 30k) not I can.
Does majority in this forum think this way too?
600whp is a stretch. Assuming 15-18% drivetrain loss anyway. 800whp is a waste of time on this platform. Parts are simply too expensive, and labour simply too high - even if you wrench and fab yourself. Yes, you have to account for your own time at some point when it starts to exceed 'maintenance'.Quote:
Originally Posted by RS6Goals
There 'might' be a C5 running a 10sec slip, but it's not on this forum. IF there is one, it's a far cry from normal and includes a host of $$$ to lay claim to doing so.
Asked and answered....
I don't understand your logic. Whether you're on the street, or on the track, you will always have a driver in the car adding weight to the total package that is being pushed along. Remove the jack, spare tire, and take a good dump before you leave home for othe day and you save a few pounds yes.Quote:
Originally Posted by RS6Goals
Porsche, C7 Audi platform, SRT Grand Cherokee are a trio that pop to mind for AWD. The list opens up for RWD options.Quote:
Originally Posted by RS6Goals
I only talk about without driver because it's more consistent. Driver weight and gear vary. But a lot...
And Cherokee is out it's an SUV. Not to mention it's 4700... I'd be slower how is that any better as a base.
C7 can you be a bit specific? And pretty sure it's going to be pricey.
And I'm pretty sure any porsche that's worth discussing will be way too expensive.